Haramosh Peak
Mountain in the Karakoram range in Pakistan
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Haramosh Peak (Urdu: ہراموش چوٹی), also known as Haramosh or Peak 58, is a Karakoram range mountain located in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. The 7,409-metre Haramosh Peak is situated roughly 65 kilometres (40 mi) to the east of Gilgit, within the south-central part of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains, which is a subrange of the Karakoram range. This mountain rises steeply above the north bank of the Indus River, just upstream from its confluence with the Gilgit River.
Ranked 67th
| Haramosh Peak | |||
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| Simplified Chinese | 哈拉莫什峰 | ||
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The Haramosh massif consists of two main summits: Haramosh Peak and Haramosh Kutwal Laila Peak.[3] The Haramosh Peak was first successfully climbed in 1958 by an Austrian team comprising Heini Roiss, Stephan Pauer, and Dr. Franz Mandl.[4][5]
Climbing history
Haramosh was first reconnoitered in 1947 when a Swiss team explored the area. Subsequently, in 1955, a German team investigated a potential northeastern route to the mountain. However, it was in 1957 that Haramosh became the site of an ill-fated expedition. A team from Oxford University, consisting of Tony Streather, John Emery, Bernard Jillot, and Rae Culbert, attempted to conquer the peak but faced a series of mishaps and misfortunes during their ascent. This expedition led to the loss of Bernard Jillot and Rae Culbert's lives, while Tony Streather and John Emery survived.[6] Emery, however, endured severe frostbite and lost all of his fingers and toes as a result of the ordeal. The epic tale of this expedition is told in Ralph Barker's The Last Blue Mountain.[7]
Haramosh was first climbed on 4 August 1958 by three Austrian mountaineers: Heinrich Roiss, Stefan Pauer and Franz Mandl, via the Haramosh La (a saddle to the northeast) and the East Ridge, roughly the route of the 1957 tragedy.[8]
According to the Himalayan Index,[9] there have been only three more ascents, in 1978 (Japanese, West Ridge), 1979 (unknown party/route), and 1988 (Polish, Southwest Face).
