Dmitrii Sharafutdinov
Russian rock climber (born 1986)
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Dmitri Sarafutdinov (Russian: Дмитрий Шарафутдинов; born 16 September 1986 in Korkino), also known as Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, is a professional Russian rock climber and competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. He has won three World Championships, in 2007,[2] 2011[3] and 2012[4] and one Bouldering World Cup in 2013.[5]
Climbing at the Bouldering Worldcup August 2012 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Russian | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | 16 September 1986[1] Korkino, Russia | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 178 cm (5 ft 10 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 59 kg (130 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | Winning 3 World Championships and 1 World Cup | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on 28 July 2017 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career
Dmitri started climbing when he was six years old and trained in a small climbing gym in Korkino.
Competition climbing
In 2002 he started competing in the youth competition speed climbing and competition lead climbing disciplines. In 2002 he won the bronze medal in speed Youth A at the World Youth Championship in Canteleu, France[6] and in 2004 he won the bronze medal in lead Junior at the World Youth Championship in Edinburgh.[7]
In 2003 he began competing in the senior categories, in lead, speed, and bouldering disciplines, and in 2004 he won the Russian Climbing Championship in bouldering.[8] From 2007 he focused on bouldering where he achieved his greatest success.
On 24 April 2007 Dmitri took his first podium in the Bouldering World Cup placing second in Sofia,[9] and on 23 June he gained his first victory at Fiera di Primiero, Italy.[10] He ended the season in second place behind Kilian Fischhuber.[11] In the same year he won his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain.[2]
In 2011 he achieved five podiums and the final second place in the Bouldering World Cup[12] and his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy.[3] In 2012 he won his third World Championships, in Paris.[4]
In 2013 he won his first Bouldering World Cup title, with two wins, one second and two podium finishes out of eight events.[5]
Rock climbing
In July 2012 he climbed his hardest sport climbing route, the 9a+ (5.15a)-graded route, Ali-Hulk extension, in Rodellar, Spain. The route consists of a boulder route and a sport climbing route that are linked together.[13]
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
| Discipline[14] | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 56 | - | 27 | 23 | 2 | 3 | 24 | 4 | 2 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 11 | 12 | 24 |
| Lead | 63 | - | 44 | - | 44 | - | - | - | - | - | 49 | - | - | - | - |
| Speed | 20 | - | 11 | 19 | 16 | 27 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | 14 | - | 3 | 10 | 4 | 4 | - | - | - | - | 4 | - | - | - | 77 |
Climbing World Championships
| Discipline[15] | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 7 | 1 | - | 1 | 1 | 5 | 33 |
| Lead | 30 | 47 | - | - | - | - | - |
| Speed | - | 11 | - | - | - | - | - |
Climbing European Championships
| Discipline[15] | 2004 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 8 | - | 4 | 5 | 9 | 2 | 11 |
| Lead | 54 | 3 | - | 41 | - | 18 | - |
| Speed | - | 8 | - | - | - | 22 | - |
Number of medals in the World Cup
Bouldering
| Season[15] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2007 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2008 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2009 | 0 | |||
| 2010 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2011 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
| 2012 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2013 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 5 |
| 2014 | 2 | 2 | 4 | |
| Total | 12 | 9 | 3 | 24 |
