Sachi Amma
Japanese rock climber (born 1989)
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Sachi Amma (born September 23, 1989) is a Japanese professional rock climber and sport climber. He won the IFSC Climbing World Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013.
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| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japanese | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | September 23, 1989 Tochigi Prefecture, Japan | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional sport climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 172 cm (5 ft 8 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 53 kg (117 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Lead climbing | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | Winning the World Cup in 2012 and 2013 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on October 31, 2017 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Biography
In 2006 he started competing at the World Cup, in the Lead climbing discipline, and won the Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013. In 2009, 2010 and 2012 he also competed, occasionally, in the Bouldering discipline, with less encouraging results.
He mainly climbs indoor, but he also proved to be one of the strongest rock climbers in the world, by redpointing three routes graded 9a+ (5.15a): Papichulo (Oliana), Pachamama (Oliana), and La Rambla (Siurana).
He has since redpointed one additional 9a+ (5.15a): Realization (Céüse)[1] and two routes graded 9b (5.15b): Soul Mate (Gozen Iwa) and Fight or Flight (Oliana),[2] the former becoming Japan's hardest sport climb.[3]
Rankings
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
| Season[5] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2009 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2010 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2011 | 4 | 3 | 7 | |
| 2012 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 6 |
| 2013 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 6 |
| 2014 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| Total | 7 | 12 | 10 | 29 |
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
9b (5.15b):
- Sleeping Lion – Siurana (ESP) – March 15, 2026 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2023
- Soul Mate – Gozen Iwa (JPN) – March 2018 – First ascent. Described as Japan's hardest route and first 9b.[3]
- Fight or Flight – Oliana (ESP) – February 2015 – First ascent by Chris Sharma.[2]
9a+ (5.15a):
- Realization – Céüse (FRA) – August 6, 2014 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2001[1]
- La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – November 29, 2012 – First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué, 2003[6]
- Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – December 17, 2011 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2009[7]
- Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – December 24, 2010 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2008[8]
9a (5.14d):