Assamese jewellery
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| Axomiya Gohona Assamese Jewellery | |
|---|---|
| Geographical indication | |
 A Sattriya dancer wearing traditional Assamese jewellery | |
| Description | Traditional handcrafted jewellery of Assam made primarily from gold and silver |
| Type | Handicraft |
| Area | Assam |
| Country | India |
| Registered | 2025 |
| Material | Gold, Silver, Gemstones, Amber |
Assamese jewellery or Axomiya Gohona refers to the traditional handcrafted ornaments of the Indian state of Assam. Known for their intricate craftsmanship, use of high-purity gold, and nature-inspired motifs, these ornaments form an integral part of Assamese cultural identity. The jewellery is typically made from pure gold (locally known as Kesa Xoon) or silver with gold plating, often adorned with colourful gemstones, amber and enamel work.[1][2] It is widely worn during festivals such as Bihu, weddings, and other ceremonial occasions.[1]
The tradition of jewellery-making in Assam dates back to ancient times, when Gold nuggets was abundantly available in riverbeds such as the Subansiri River.[3][unreliable source?] Early references to gold usage in the region appear in classical texts like the Arthashastra.
During the medieval period, Assamese jewellery flourished under royal patronage. Artisans developed distinctive designs inspired by nature, religion, and local traditions.
During the reign of King Rudra Singha, significant efforts were made to improve the quality and craftsmanship of gold ornaments in Assam. Historical accounts note that goldsmiths from Assam were sent to cities such as Jaipur and Benares to learn advanced techniques of ornament-making.[4]
Prior to this period, locally made ornaments were considered less refined. Upon their return, two trained artisans were appointed at Rajshal by the king and were conferred the title of Bardoloi.[4] This initiative led to significant improvements in design and craftsmanship.
Subsequently, the production of gold-plated ornaments expanded, and the goldsmithing tradition in Assam evolved into a thriving cottage industry.[4]
Materials and craftsmanship
Goldsmiths in ancient Assam used a wide range of specialized tools and implements for crafting ornaments and decorative objects. These tools varied in size and function depending on the stage of production, such as cutting, shaping, polishing, and finishing.
Some of the commonly used tools included Mathani (large, medium, and small knives), Charai Mathani (a small brass knife), Resni, Narni, Afuri, Ghar, Thiha, Kati, Ghuti, Phali, Akwa, Reti, Ghotni, Shan, Muhi, Dhalna, Kakon, Chepena, Lep, and Sarah.[4] In addition to these, several traditional tools and devices were known by regional names, including Gotalimaria, Dheka, Bhati, Feti-Chatuli, Chatuli, Akuri, Khan, Jaran, Marpa, Biri Matha, Miri Sako Akwa, Pacharangi, Fukchunga, Chana, Kasati Shil, Rogan, and Kholni.[4]
Traditional Assamese jewellery is primarily made using:
- Gold (Kesa Xoon) – often of high purity
- Silver – frequently gold-plated
- Gemstones and enamel (mina work) – in red, green, blue, black, and white shades[2]
- Amber
Artisans employ handcrafting techniques passed down through generations, including engraving, filigree work, and enamel decoration. Designs often incorporate motifs of birds, flowers, musical instruments, and cultural symbols.[1]
Types of Assamese jewellery
Assamese jewellery includes a wide variety of ornaments worn on different parts of the body.
Necklaces
Junbiri
Junbiri is one of the most iconic Assamese ornaments, characterized by its Crescent (moon-like) shape. The term derives from jun (moon), reflecting its distinctive design. It is widely worn during festivals and weddings.
Dholbiri
Dholbiri is a traditional necklace inspired by the shape of the dhol (drum). It is often adorned with intricate patterns.[1] It is also known as Motabiri. Historically, the term Motabiri was used to refer to a large, drum-shaped ornament made without the use of gemstones. In earlier times, this ornament was worn exclusively by men.[4] In contemporary practice, Dhulbiri ornaments are crafted using gemstones as well as enamel work in colours such as black, red, and green. Over time, the usage of the ornament has expanded, and it is now worn by women as well.[1]
Dugdugi
Dugdugi or Doogdoogi is a unique style gold pendant resembling a small leaf. It is worn hanging from the neck to the chest.[1]
Bracelets
Gamkharu
Gamkharu is a traditional broad bracelet, usually made of gold or silver. It dates back to the pre-Ahom period and symbolizes strength, prosperity, and feminine power. Historically associated with royalty, it later became a common bridal ornament.
Earrings
Keru
Keru are cylindrical or spiral-shaped earrings, often decorated with enamel and gemstones.[1]
Lokaparo
Lokaparo earrings feature two pigeons facing each other, symbolizing love and companionship. These are among the most culturally symbolic Assamese ornaments.[5]
Rings and other ornaments
Assamese jewellery also includes rings such as Senpata, Jethinejia, and Bakhorpotiya, along with various bead-based ornaments like Moni necklaces.[1]
Design and symbolism
Assamese jewellery is deeply symbolic and often inspired by:
- Nature (flowers, leaves, birds)
- Musical instruments (e.g., dhol)
- Mythology and folklore
- Social and marital status
