Clos Ostler
New Zealand vineyard
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Clos Ostler is a monopole vineyard situated on a limestone escarpment near Duntroon in the Waitaki Valley of New Zealand's South Island, and is regarded as one of the pioneering vineyards of the region. The estate is planted predominantly with Pinot Noir, together with smaller plantings of Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Limestone soils are uncommon in New Zealand viticulture and are widely associated with the production of structured, ageworthy Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.[1]
Clos Ostler has played a significant role in establishing the Waitaki Valley as an internationally recognised cool-climate wine-producing area.[2][3] Its flagship wines, Caroline's Pinot Noir and EOS Pinot Noir, have received international critical recognition for their mineral structure, savoury complexity and ageing potential, earning major awards including three trophies at the International Wine Challenge and a Platinum medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards.[4][5]
Since 2021, the estate has been owned by the Roulet Magides family, whose wine interests also include co-ownership of Yarra Yering in Australia's Yarra Valley.[6][7]
History
Founding (1998–2001)
Clos Ostler was identified in 1998 as a vineyard site with potential for producing premium cool-climate wines by Jim Jerram, a medical doctor then directing the University of Otago's student health service, and his brother-in-law Jeff Sinnott, a trained viticulturist and winemaker. At the time, the Waitaki Valley remained largely undeveloped for commercial viticulture despite its distinctive limestone geology and cool climate.[3]
The founders selected the north-facing limestone terraces near Duntroon after identifying similarities between the site's ancient marine limestone soils and the calcareous terroirs associated with some of the world's leading cool-climate wine regions. They believed the combination of limestone soils, low vigour, and the Waitaki Valley's long, cool growing season could produce Burgundian varieties including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris at the highest level.[3]
The vineyard was named after Jim Jerram's great-grandfather, William Ostler, who emigrated from Yorkshire to the district during the 1850s.[3] Following two years of due diligence, including climate modelling from three weather stations, the property was purchased in 2001.[8]
Early development (2002–2020)
The first vines were planted in 2002, with Pinot Noir established as the principal variety under the guidance of Jeff Sinnott, who served as viticultural adviser and winemaker. Chardonnay and Pinot Gris were introduced in smaller quantities as the suitability of the limestone site for Burgundian varieties became increasingly evident.[9]
The founders described the vineyard as representing "one of the most viticulturally significant soils in New Zealand", reflecting their belief that the ancient marine limestone terraces possessed exceptional potential for producing site-expressive cool-climate wines.[9]
The early years proved challenging. Frost events, often more severe than those experienced in neighbouring Central Otago, required continuous overnight monitoring and helicopter frost protection, while the naturally low yields characteristic of the limestone site made commercial success difficult.[8]
Despite these challenges, Caroline's Pinot Noir gained consistent international recognition, winning gold medals at the International Wine Challenge for six consecutive vintages from 2010 onwards.[8] As critical recognition increased, Clos Ostler played an important role in establishing the reputation of the Waitaki Valley as one of New Zealand's emerging cool-climate Pinot Noir regions. International tastings and reviews from leading wine critics helped draw attention to both the vineyard and the wider region.[10]
Roulet Magides family ownership (2021–present)
In July 2021, Jim and Anne Jerram sold Clos Ostler to ACG Wines Ltd, owned by the Roulet Magides family. The acquisition brought the Waitaki Valley estate into a family with a multigenerational involvement in wine, tracing its winemaking heritage to 1887 in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. The family's wine interests also include co-ownership of Yarra Yering in Victoria's Yarra Valley, one of Australia's most critically acclaimed wineries.[11][12]
Since acquiring the estate, the Roulet Magides family has continued to invest in the long-term development of Clos Ostler while maintaining its single-vineyard philosophy and commitment to expressing the character of its ancient limestone terroir. Investment has included vineyard expansion, additional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay plantings, refinement of Burgundian clone selection, and continued investment in viticulture and winemaking, including the adoption of premium French cooperage and an increased focus on parcel selection and site expression.[9][13]
Winemaking responsibilities passed to Sarah-Kate and Dan Dineen of Maude Wines, while viticultural management continued under Timbo Deaker of Viticultura. In 2024, the vineyard expanded from approximately 8 hectares to 9.5 hectares with additional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay plantings, while maintaining its status as a single-vineyard monopole.[9]
Under the ownership of the Roulet Magides family, Clos Ostler has continued to receive international critical recognition. Caroline's Pinot Noir 2021 was awarded three trophies at the 2025 International Wine Challenge, while the inaugural EOS Pinot Noir 2022 received a Platinum medal and 97 points at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards.[14][15]
Location and terroir
Clos Ostler is situated in the Waitaki Valley, a cool-climate wine region spanning North Otago and South Canterbury. The valley experiences a semi-continental climate characterised by warm, dry summers, cool nights and an extended autumn growing season. These conditions promote slow, even ripening, allowing grapes to retain natural acidity while developing flavour, fine, chalky tannins and aromatic complexity.[2]
The vineyard occupies north-facing limestone terraces formed from an uplifted marine seabed dating to approximately 38 million years ago.[16] The soils are predominantly classified as Rendzic Melanic soils developed over limestone according to the New Zealand Soil Classification, a soil type that is uncommon in New Zealand viticulture, and cover less than 1% of the country.[17] Repeated soil analyses have identified exceptionally high concentrations of naturally occurring calcium carbonate, reflecting the site's ancient marine limestone geology.[18] Limestone soils are recognised for restricting vine vigour, encouraging deep root systems and contributing to wines with chalk-like mineral texture, structural precision and longevity.[19]
The vineyard comprises approximately 8 hectares, expanding to 9.5 hectares from 2024, planted across rocky limestone slopes with naturally low-vigour soils.[20] The combination of ancient marine limestone, naturally low-yielding soils and one of New Zealand's coolest commercial viticultural climates contributes to wines noted for their concentration, chalk-like mineral texture, savoury complexity, fine, chalky tannin structure and capacity for extended bottle ageing.
The site is influenced by both easterly and westerly airflows. Cool easterly winds from the Pacific Ocean moderate temperatures during the growing season, while drier inland westerlies reduce disease pressure, contributing to the vineyard's long, slow ripening conditions and balanced phenolic development.[2]
Viticulture
Clos Ostler is planted primarily with Pinot Noir, alongside small blocks of Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. The Pinot Noir vineyard comprises Dijon clones 115, 667 and 777, together with UCD6 and the Abel clone, a heritage Pinot Noir selection originating from vine material associated with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy.[21]
The vineyard's ancient marine limestone soils, naturally low vine vigour and marginal cool-climate conditions contribute to consistently low yields and concentrated fruit. Grapes are harvested entirely by hand and picked according to clone and ripeness, allowing each parcel to be vinified separately before blending. Fermentation takes place in open-top fermenters with hand pigeage, before the wines are matured for approximately 15 months in French Burgundian oak barrels, typically with around 20% new oak.[22]
Élevage is carried out in fine-grained French oak barriques from leading cooperages including Taransaud, using oak sourced from the Tronçais Forest. The restrained use of new oak is intended to enhance texture, structure and longevity while preserving purity of fruit and expression of the vineyard's limestone terroir.[23]
The combination of ancient marine limestone geology, naturally high acidity, careful clone selection and Burgundian-inspired winemaking contributes to wines recognised for their savoury minerality, fine, chalky tannin structure, vibrant acidity and capacity for extended bottle ageing. Independent critics have noted that, with bottle age, the wines develop increasing tertiary complexity, including forest floor, dried herbs, spice, mushroom and truffle characteristics while retaining freshness, structural precision and mineral tension.[10][24][25]
Production
Clos Ostler is a small-scale estate, producing wines exclusively from its single monopole vineyard. Annual production is limited by the vineyard's cool climate, naturally low-vigour limestone soils and deliberately low-yield viticulture, with approximately 20,000 bottles produced annually.[26]
The estate produces four wines from the Clos Ostler vineyard. Caroline's Pinot Noir and EOS Pinot Noir are the estate's two flagship wines, each representing a distinct expression of the vineyard's limestone terroir. Caroline's Pinot Noir is produced from a broader selection of vineyard parcels to express the depth and complexity of the estate, while EOS Pinot Noir is selected and blended to emphasise elegance, texture and long-term bottle development. Audrey's Pinot Gris is produced in a dry, mineral style. Cameron Douglas MS described the wine as having "a distinctive memory of Alsace Grand Cru quality", highlighting its chalky minerality, texture and complexity.[27] Chardonnay is produced from Clone 95. According to the estate, successive vintages have explored stylistic expressions inspired by both Montrachet and Chablis, illustrating the breadth of expression achievable from the vineyard's limestone terroir.[28]
Because production is limited and fruit is sourced entirely from the estate vineyard, Clos Ostler wines are released in small quantities and distributed through selected domestic and international markets.
Awards and recognition
International Wine Challenge
Caroline's Pinot Noir has achieved sustained success at the International Wine Challenge (IWC) in London, receiving Gold medals across multiple vintages. The wine earned Gold medals for six consecutive vintages from 2010 onwards, a record cited by the IWC as evidence of its consistency.[8][9]
At the 2025 International Wine Challenge, Caroline's Pinot Noir 2021 received three trophies:
- Best New Zealand Red Wine
- Best New Zealand Pinot Noir
- Best North Otago Pinot Noir
The judges described it as "a stunning wine from an isolated area in the far south of New Zealand's South Island", praising its "wonderfully lush texture", "springtime sap aromas" and "rich savouriness". The wine also received a Gold medal at the competition.[29][30]
Decanter World Wine Awards
The inaugural EOS Pinot Noir 2022 received a Platinum medal and 97 points at the 2026 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), one of the world's largest international wine competitions.[31]
Platinum is the highest medal category awarded below Best in Show and is reserved for Gold medal-winning wines that progress through an additional round of blind judging by Decanter's international panel of experts. In 2026, Platinum medals were awarded to 196 wines, representing approximately 1.18% of all entries.[32]
The Decanter judges described EOS Pinot Noir 2022 as "a cool climate spectacular", praising its "wonderful soaring herbs, green olives, bay leaves, cherries and raspberries", together with its "decisive structure, shapely tannins and crisp acidity", concluding that the wine was "long and savoury".[33]
Critical response
Clos Ostler wines have received consistent international critical recognition for their expression of limestone terroir, structural precision, savoury complexity and capacity for extended bottle ageing. Collectively, reviews from Masters of Wine, leading critics and comparative tasting panels have established Clos Ostler among New Zealand's leading Pinot Noir producers, with particular recognition for its mineral tension, chalk-like tannin structure, purity of fruit and longevity.
Among Masters of Wine, Jasper Morris, writing for Inside Burgundy, described Clos Ostler Pinot Noir as "silky and ripe" with "impressive depth and intensity", praising its concentration, balance and refinement.[10][34]
Richard Hemming MW, writing for JancisRobinson.com, described Caroline's Pinot Noir 2021 as "one of those wines that stops you in your tracks", concluding that it was "among the best of the best I've tried".[35]
Stephen Wong MW described Clos Ostler Pinot Noir as "sleek and compact", highlighting its layered fruit and structural precision.[36]
Konstantin Baum MW praised Caroline's Pinot Noir 2021 for its concentration, texture and long finish, noting its distinctive combination of ripe dark fruit, black tea, herbal complexity and freshness.[37]
Australian critic Ray Jordan awarded Caroline's Pinot Noir 2016 98 points, describing it as "the finest New World Pinot I have tasted".[38]
Huon Hooke awarded the same wine 97 points, describing it as "a gorgeous, elegant but profound pinot" and stating that it would do much to cement the reputation of the Waitaki Valley.[39]
Cameron Douglas MS awarded Caroline's Pinot Noir 2021 96 points, describing its "fine needle-point tannins", mineral structure and complex finish, recommending cellaring from 2028 to 2038 and beyond.[40]
Raymond Chan Wine Reviews awarded multiple vintages 19/20 (approximately 95–96 points), highlighting their "lacy, engaging acidity", finesse and site expression.[21]
Sam Kim awarded both the 2016 and 2021 vintages 97 points, describing the wines as "seductive and immensely complex", with "outstanding concentration and depth".[41][42]
The 2025 Dish magazine Pinot Noir tasting panel, which assessed wines from 123 producers across New Zealand, selected Caroline's Pinot Noir 2021 among its "Top of the Tasting" wines. The judges described it as "a very serious wine", praising its earthy aromatics, concentration, texture and complexity. The tasting panel noted that producers including Clos Ostler featured prominently among the highest-ranked wines.
The FWD tasting panel awarded Caroline's Pinot Noir 2021 98 points, describing it as "a Pinot of amazing beauty, concentration and length" and comparing its style with Chambolle-Musigny, while praising its savoury and saline character and potential for further development in bottle.[43]
International publications have also recognised the wines. Decanter described Caroline's Pinot Noir as displaying "wild raspberry, cranberry, red plum" with "a tight mineral spine and very fine, chalky tannins". The Wine Advocate highlighted the wine's floral perfume, richness and freshness, while Wine Spectator described it as "lush and rich" with ripe black cherry and blackberry characters and a complex finish. Wine Spectator columnist Matt Kramer compared the style of Clos Ostler Pinot Noir with Chambolle-Musigny, one of Burgundy's most highly regarded Pinot Noir appellations.[44]
Across more than a decade of independent reviews, Clos Ostler wines have consistently been characterised by purity of fruit, savoury complexity, chalk-like minerality, vibrant natural acidity and fine-grained tannin structure. Critics have repeatedly highlighted the influence of the vineyard's ancient marine limestone soils and cool-climate growing conditions, noting that the wines combine immediate elegance with the capacity to develop increasing tertiary complexity, including forest floor, dried herbs, mushroom, spice and truffle, while retaining freshness, balance and structural precision with extended bottle age.[10][21][45]
Style
Clos Ostler wines are recognised for combining ripe fruit concentration with pronounced savoury complexity, mineral tension and structural precision, characteristics widely attributed to the vineyard's ancient marine limestone soils and cool-climate growing conditions.[10][21][44]
The estate's two flagship Pinot Noirs, Caroline's Pinot Noir and EOS Pinot Noir, represent different expressions of the monopole vineyard. Caroline's Pinot Noir emphasises the breadth, depth and complexity of the estate, while EOS Pinot Noir is produced in smaller quantities to express elegance, texture, savoury minerality and extended bottle ageing potential.[46]
Independent critics have frequently noted the wines' chalk-like tannins, vibrant acidity and mineral structure, drawing stylistic comparisons with the great limestone vineyards of Burgundy. With extended bottle age, the Pinot Noirs are noted for developing tertiary aromas including forest floor, dried herbs, mushroom, spice and truffle while retaining freshness, balance and precision.[10][21][47]
The estate's Chardonnay has been produced in stylistic expressions inspired by both Chablis and Montrachet, while Audrey's Pinot Gris has been compared by Cameron Douglas MS to the Grand Cru Pinot Gris wines of Alsace, reflecting the versatility of the vineyard's limestone terroir across varieties.[48][49]
Industry context
Clos Ostler is widely regarded as one of the pioneering vineyards responsible for establishing the reputation of the Waitaki Valley as a premium cool-climate wine region.[3][10]
The vineyard was among the earliest commercial plantings in the valley and demonstrated the suitability of the region's rare limestone soils for producing premium Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Its sustained critical recognition has contributed to the growing international profile of the Waitaki Valley, a geographical indication with fewer than 50 hectares of vines planted as of 2024, making it one of New Zealand's smallest wine regions by area.[2][10]
Despite its small size, the Waitaki Valley has become recognised for producing wines characterised by pronounced minerality, vibrant acidity and longevity, with Clos Ostler frequently cited among the region's leading producers.[2][10]