Clothing in Ethiopia

Habesha Kemis

Habesha kemis is the traditional handwoven cotton attire indigenous to the Amhara people of the Ethiopian highlands. For millennia, cotton cultivation and the production of hand-spun cotton cloth, known as shemma, have been central to the social and economic fabric of Amhara communities. While white, ankle-length dress has been widely adopted as a national symbol of Ethiopia, it specifically reflects the cultural pride and weaving heritage of the Amhara.

Distinct regional variations of the Habesha kemis exist within the Amhara region, distinguished by unique embroidery motifs (tilet), and patterns in areas such as Gondar, Gojjam, Wollo, and Shewa. These textile traditions stand in contrast to the indigenous attire of other groups, such as the leather and cowhide garments of the Oromo^[5], the tilfi of Tigray, the brightly colored wraps of the Afar, the white long dress of the Somali knotted over one shoulder^[6], or the distinct purple and red dresses of the Harari community known as the Tey Eraz and Gay Eraz^[7].

Men's Clothing

Similar to the female Habesha kemis outfit, men's garments consist of well-designed embroidered shirt that matches the Habesha kemis. Although the colors vary, the outfit is mostly white and usually cozy.^[8][9]Eje Tebab (Amharic: እጀጠባብ) is a specific type of traditional Amhara men's attire. It consists of a long white tunic that reaches the knee and typically worn with white trousers called tenefanef (Amharic: ተነፋነፍ).

Bernos is worn by men of the Amhara ethnic group, particularly in the Shewa region. Donald N. Levine wrote that men from Menz wore this type of garment and described men wearing "the barnos", a tailored cape made of dark wool."^[9]The Bernos is also worn by highlander élites and often seen more importantly in social status. The garment is worn by most men in special occasions and traditional ceremonies.^[9]

Types of Draped Fabrics

Several types of traditional draped cotton fabric are worn as headwear or shawls.

The netela (Amharic: ነጠላ) is a handmade shawl-like single-layered cloth worn by women paired with the Habesha kemis.^[10] The name comes from the Amharic word netela which means 'single', referring to the way the thin fabric is typically worn as a single layer. The kuta is the male equivalent of the female netela. It is a traditional handwoven white cotton shawl typically worn by men over their shoulders or head, especially when attending church or formal religious ceremonies. ^[11][12]

The gabi (Amharic: ጋቢ) or buleko (Amharic: ቡልኮ) is a thicker garment, with four layers of fabric holding significant cultural value in Amhara culture. Worn by both men and women, it is intended for cold weather.^[13] It is a household good in the Amhara ethnic group due to the high altitude of their homeland, especially clergy and the elderly.^[14] Amhara women get together for spinning the yarn required to make several gabis and present the gabis as a gift for their husbands.^[15]

Key aspects of the gabi or buleko in Amhara culture include:

• Wedding and Dowry: The gabi or buleko is a crucial part of the dowry. A bride's family is traditionally expected to give a gabi or buleko to the groom before the marriage, which signifies the parents' status and strength^[16].
• Cultural Status Symbol: It is worn by adult men and, along with other traditional clothes, is a key component of traditional Amhara attire, often given as a gift during ceremonies^[16].
• Significance in Leadership: Gabi or buleko are often worn by village leaders or elders during important meetings to illustrate their authority^[14].
• Functionality: Due to its heavy nature, it serves as a crucial blanket to protect against the cold in the highlands^[14].

Oromo Traditions

As a predominantly pastoralist people, the Oromo people have a long-standing tradition of cowhide clothing. These garments are often treated with animal fats and decorated with cowrie shells. Leather remains a foundational cultural marker in Oromo history^[17].

The Oromo utilize three main categories of skins, each serving specific functional and cultural purposes:

• Cowhide (Gogaa Loonii): The most fundamental material, used for structured garments like the Wandabo (a wrap-around skirt). Its thickness provides essential protection against thorny landscapes^[18].
• Goat and Sheep Skin (Haduu/Gogaa Reeyee)): Used for more flexible or intimate items, such as Qollo (a shoulder cloak). These are often treated with butter or oils to maintain softness and act as preservative^[18].
• Wild Animal Skins (Gogaa Bineensaa): Skins from Colobus monkey or leopards were strictly reserved for renowned warriors or those in the ruling age-grade (Luba) of the Gadaa system^[18].

Key garments across the Oromo include:

• Wandabo: A heavily worked wrap-around cowhide skirt for women designed for protection in thorny landscapes.
• Gorfo (Sadetti): a complete cowhide dress for women, often decorated with beads.
• Gurda (Sabaqa): Wide, stiff leather belts heavily encrusted with beads. Specific bead patterns often indicate a woman's clan affiliation and family wealth^[18].
• Qollo and Woya: Softened sheep or goat skin cloaks (Qollo) and a toga-like leather robes (Woya) worn over the shoulders.
• Woya: A toga like robe, made of softened hide.
• Sirra: A layered leather wrap worn by men^[18].

Southern Traditions

Southern people of Ethiopia relied on leather, animal skins, and fibers from the enset plant (false banana) due to their environments. By the end of the 20th century, the adoption of cotton that was once exclusive to northern communities came to be worn alongside ancestral leather traditions by Gurage, Silte, Sidama, Gamo, Dizi, Gugi, Wolayta, and Hadiya^[19].

Before the widespread adoption of cotton, southern communities utilized materials dictated by their agro-pastoralist lifestyles.

• Gurage and Silte: These groups were historically known for specialized leather handicrafts. Because they lived in high-altitude, cold regions, heavy cowhide cloaks and mats provided essential insulations^[20].
• Sidama and Hadiya: In these societies, clothing often communicated social rank. They used cowhide as daily functional wraps. Warriors and elders wore wild animals or specially treated sheepskin to signify bravery.

The proliferation of cotton in the south was catalyzed by increased trade and the expansion of the Ethiopian state during the late 1800s.

Following the shift to ethnic federalism in 1995, groups like the Silte have intentionally designed "new" traditional costumes that use shemma^[20].

Harari Traditions

Harari women traditionally wear distinctive dresses such as Tey Eraz, a dark indigo or black gown with a characteristic red chest motif, and Gey Eraz, a more elaborately decorated ceremonial dress in deep colors that reflect long-standing South Asian influence.^[21] These garments are typically paired with Gay Gannafi trousers, the melfota headscarf, and the siyassa metal chain headpiece worn across the forehead^[21]. Their attire is complemented by silver jewellery including long necklaces and cylindrical pendants^[21]. Harari men traditionally wear a rounded hat often cortched in geometric patterns. The hat is worn with long shirts and trousers and is a distinctive marker of Harari male clothing^[21].