Draft:Marco Sappa
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Marco Sappa (born 6 March 1988) is an Italian professional trad and crack climber. He is known for his repeats of world-class difficult crack lines, including the sixth ascent of Necronomicon (8b+/5.14a) in Canyonlands National Park and the third ascent of La Pura Pura (8c/5.14b).[1][2]
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 Marco Sappa in 2025 | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | 6 March 1988 Aosta, Italy |
| Occupation(s) | Mountain guide, professional climber |
| Climbing career | |
| Type of climber | Trad climbing, crack climbing, alpine climbing |
| Highest grade | 8c (5.14b) trad |
| Known for | Sixth ascent of Necronomicon (8b+/5.14a) and third ascent of La Pura Pura (8c/5.14b) |
Biography
Sappa grew up in the Aosta Valley, at the foot of Mont Blanc. He began climbing at a young age with his father, a mountain guide from Courmayeur, with whom he climbed the Dent du Géant at age 10. In 2012, he graduated with a degree in psychology from the University of Turin. He initially worked as an HR Manager for Maserati until 2016, when he decided to leave his corporate career to return to Courmayeur and focus exclusively on professional climbing.
In 2019, he became a certified UIAGM mountain guide and joined the Courmayeur Alpine Guides Society.[3]
Climbing career
Sappa's climbing career is focused on high-difficulty traditional and crack climbing. In 2021, he repeated Green Spit (8b+/5.14a) in Orco Valley.[4]
In October 2024, he completed the third ascent of La Pura Pura (8c/5.14b), a crack line first freed by Tom Randall.[5][6]
In August 2025, together with Marco Ghisio, Sappa made the first free ascent (FFA) of L'Amitié (8a+/5.13c) on the South Face of the Matterhorn.[7]
Notable ascents
- La Pura Pura (8c/5.14b trad), Orco Valley, 2024. Third ascent.[8]
- Necronomicon (8b+/5.14a trad), Canyonlands, USA, 2025. Sixth ascent.[9]
- L'Amitié (8a+/5.13c), South Face of Matterhorn, 2025. First free ascent.
- Sans Liberté (8b+/5.14a trad), Pic Adolphe Rey, 2025.[10]
- Belly Full of Bad Berries (8a/5.13b trad), Indian Creek, USA, 2023. First Italian ascent.[11]
- Green Spit (8b+/5.14a trad), Orco Valley, 2021.