Durumagi
Korean overcoat with no back or side vents
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Durumagi (Korean: 두루마기; lit. 'closed all around') is a variety of po, or overcoat, in hanbok, the traditional Korean attire. It is a form of outerwear that is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing over a jeogori (jacket) and baji (pants).[1]: 120
It also goes by the names jumagui (주막의; 周莫衣), juchaui (주차의; 周遮衣), or juui (주의; 周衣),[2]
The name Durumagi is derived from the fact that it is 'closed all around,' distinguishing it from other types of po which typically have slits.
Originating from the Hobok(호복, attire of the northern nomads), the Durumagi has been worn from the Three Kingdoms period to the present day. Once a narrow-sleeved everyday garment, it was elevated to ceremonial status during the reign of King Gojong of the Joseon Dynasty. For the first time in history, it became a formal outfit worn equally by everyone, regardless of gender, age, or social status.[3]
History
The origin of durumagi traces back to at least the Three Kingdoms of Korea, where it originated from a long coat worn by the northern nomadic peoples to fend off cold weather in ancient times.[4][5][6][7]
According to Samuel Lee, the origins of the durumagi can be traced back to the Goguryeo period:[4]
"[Goguryeo] Murals also show that both men and women wore chima. The type worn by both for formal occasions was sang and that worn only by women was goon, which had long and wide dimensions. The origin of durumagi, the long outer coat worn over a jeogori, goes back to the Goguryeo period. The durumagi emanates form the long coat worn by northern nomadic people to fend off cold weather in ancient times. The long coat reached mid-calf and had bindings similar to those used for jeogori. Later, this [long coat] was adopted by the Goguryeo upper class in various forms for ceremonies and rituals, and the modified form worn by the general populace came to be known as durumagi.[4]
However, what is now known as the durumagi is part of the indigenous attire of the Korean people:[8]
Based on the Goguryeo mural paintings found near Pyeongyang, such as the early 5th century murals from Gamsinchong (龕神塚), the ancient durumagi worn by the owner of Gamsinchong tomb was red (or purple) in colour:[9]: 16
[The tomb of the owner of Gamsinchong Tomb] is sitting on a flat bench under a red curtain, in a purple durumagi (a traditional Korean men’s overcoat) with both hands held inside the wide sleeves on his chest. He wears a dark silk hat that shows his high societal position.
The Gamsinchong murals show a mixture of elements from before and after the fifth century; the wide-sleeves also reflect the characteristics of tomb murals that are found near the Pyeongyang area.[9]: 16 The ancient durumagi was also worn with a waist belt and had wide sleeves.[10]
Goryeo
During the Goryeo period, Mongolian influences caused the durumagi to change in appearance.[10] Not only was the waist belt changed into a goreum, the traditional po's short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat, xurumakci, of which the name durumagi is said to be derived.[11]
Joseon period
During the Joseon dynasty, the durumagi was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, King Gojong promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws.[12] However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the Gabo Reform of 1894, that the durumagi became common as formal attire.[10]
Construction and design
The durumagi is an overcoat, which is closed all around,[2] lacking side and back vents.[1]: 120 It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.[1]: 120
Different fabrics and materials are used in making durumagi: calico, wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; ramie, fine ramie and silk gauze for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn.[2] White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.[13]
Types of durumagi
There are various types which include the hotedan durumagi (홑단 두루마기; lit. 'single-layer durumagi'), gyup durumagi (겹 두루마기; lit. 'double-layer durumagi'), som durumagi (솜 두루마기; lit. 'cotton durumagi'), kkachi durumagi (까치 두루마기; lit. 'magpie durumagi'), and obangjang durumagi (오방장 두루마기; lit. 'five-colour durumagi') for children.[14]
