Ismamut Ata
Shrine in the Khwarazm oasis of Turkmenista
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Geography
History
In Turkmen folklore, Ism — a companion of Muhammad— had introduced Islam into the region for the first time, convincing the local Sultan Mahmut.[1] On Ism's death, Mahmut commissioned the mausoleum, which bore the portmanteau Ism-i Maḥmūt, anglicized to Ismamut.[1] However, there is no historical corroboration of either Ism or Mahmut; the identity of the buried figure remains unknown.[1]
It is also believed that these lands were the grazing grounds of Duldul, the mule of Muhammad.[1] This gave rise to a tradition of Turkmen tying their horses to a tree, a few hundred meters away from the site, and circumambulating it three times to seek Duldul's protection.[1][5]
Site
The main complex oversees a courtyard.[1] The oldest building in the complex can be dated to c. 16th century.[1]
First comes a series of twin-floored domed rooms with a fireplace and an intricately carved wooden door, in what is understood to have been a pilgrim's quarter or madrasa.[1] On one side of the courtyard stands the Summer Mosque.[1] To its right is the remnants of a kitchen and to its left, a covered rectangular enclosure with two tapered pillars.[1] Beyond the Summer mosque, is the Winter Mosque, a domed tetraconch building with latticed windows.[1]
On the east of the mosque complex, is the daskeche — a carpeted corridor, with seven white domes — with niches along the wall.[1] One end of it connects to the Winter Mosque by a four-domed flank-corridor whereas the other end leads to the mausoleum via an anteroom.[1] The cenotaph is housed in a locked chamber; it is only visible from the windows of the prayer-room.[1]
Tourism
The site attracts tourists; rooms have proferred along the complex, offering overnight accommodation.[1] Paul Brummell quips that the tradition of circumambulation continues except that the horses have been replaced by motor cars.[1]