Kuzu-fu

It is considered one of Japan’s shizenfu (自然布), or natural-fiber textiles, alongside Bashōfu (banana fiber cloth) and Shinafu (linden fiber cloth). Kuzu-fu is prized for its earthy texture, resilience, and deep connection to Japan’s pre-modern handcrafting traditions.

The use of kuzu in textiles dates back over 1,000 years, with references in ancient Japanese texts and court records. Historically, kuzu-fu was produced in regions such as Shizuoka, Nagano, and Gifu prefectures. While it was originally worn by common people for daily garments and work-wear, over time it came to be appreciated for its unique texture and artisanal value.^[2]

During the Edo period, kuzu-fu remained in use in rural areas. However, the Meiji era's industrialization led to its near disappearance. Today, only a few craftspeople, such as the weavers of Ōigawa Kuzu-fu in Shizuoka Prefecture, continue to preserve the tradition.^[3]

L The production of kuzu-fu is labor-intensive and involves several manual processes:^[4]

1. Harvesting: Wild kudzu vines are collected in late summer or autumn.
2. Fiber extraction: The outer bark is removed to obtain bast fibers.
3. Boiling and bleaching: Fibers are softened in alkaline lye (traditionally from wood ash) and bleached in sunlight.
4. Spinning: Dried fibers are hand-twisted into thread.
5. Weaving: The thread is woven on a traditional loom, resulting in a rustic, irregular texture.

Production may take several months and yields only small amounts of cloth.

• Texture: Crisp and textured surface.
• Colour: In its undyed state it is often an off white golden hay color.
• Breathability: Very breathable, ideal for summer wear.
• Durability: Strong and long-lasting.^[5]

Kuzu-fu was traditionally used for clothing, and became popular as a wall covering in the 19th century.^[6] In modern times, it is valued for high-end kimono and obi,^[7] and mounting scrolls. Kuzu-fu is used to line the walls of Mingei-kan, the folk art museum founded by Yanagi Soetsu.^[8]