Lehenga

Long, embroidered, pleated skirt of the Indian subcontinent From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The lehenga, lehnga or langa (also known as a ghagra, chaniyo, Paro, paavada, or lacha) is a form of ankle-length skirt from the South Asia. Different patterns and styles of traditional embroidery are used to decorate lehenga. Gota patti embroidery is often used for festivals and weddings. The lehenga, also known as the ghagra, is a traditional South asian garment that became popular in the 16th century,[1] mainly in Pakistan, Bangladesh and India. While the unstitched lower drapes existed in the region since antiquity, the lehenga as a stitched, flared garment originated from the introduction of Persian Peshwaz[2] and Central Asian tailoring techniques brought by Muslim dynasties[3] between the 12th and 16th centuries. It is typically worn as the component of a lehenga choli of ghagra choli. The lehenga became a favorite attire for muslim Mughal women of all ages and classes due to its royal appeal and convenience.[4]

History

Proto-Origin

The earliest ancestor of the lehnga is the antriya, an unstitched length of cotton wrap around garment documented in the Indus Valley Civilization (c. 2500 BCE).[5]

Persian Islamic Influence (Medieval Era)

The transition to the stitched lehenga occurred following the arrival of Muslim dynasties from Persia and Central Asia. This period introduced the concept of tailoring (silai) to the region's attire.[3][4] Unlike, the ancient wrap the lehenga was constructed using multiple trapezoidal panels, known as kalis. This Kalidar technique is direct persian garment construction, designed to create a flared, bell shaped silhouette.

The lenega's flared volume was influenced by the Peshwaz, a persian high waisted, stitched gown. When the upper part of the Peshwar was detached, it evolved into the standalone skirt today known as the lehenga. It also introduced heavy luxury fabrics such as velvet, slik brocade and mashru. Ornate embellishments like Zardozi (gold wire embroidery) and Gota patti became the standard of the garment.[6]

Indian actress Anjana Sukhani wears a bridal lehenga with gota patti embroidery, which is used extensively in weddings across the Indian subcontinent.

Variations

Ghagri

The ghagri is a six-foot-long narrow skirt, the same length as the original antariya. This style of lehenga is still used today, and is worn by Jain nuns in India.

A-line

The A-line lehenga has an A-line skirt and hem and is named for its shape, which resembles the capital letter "A." The skirt is tighter at the waist and flares out at the bottom.

Flared

A flared or circular lehenga has a round skirt which can be pleated or layered for volume.

Double-flared

A double-flared lehenga is a type of multi-layered can-can skirt with a dramatic flare and extra volume.

Mermaid

A mermaid lehenga, also known as a fishtail or trumpet, resembles the tail of a fish. This style is fitted from the waist to the knees, then flares over the calves.

Paneled

A paneled lehenga has several horizontal panels of fabric stitched together to create a flare, resulting in a fuller skirt. The horizontal panels can be of the same or varying sizes and shapes.

Sharara

A sharara lehenga is also known as a pavadai, langa davani, langa voni, or half saree. It features large, voluminous pants called palazzos. In Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka it is part of the langa voni. It is typically worn in South India with a dupatta wrapped around the waist and draped across the shoulder like a sari.

Straight

A straight lehenga has a straight silhouette without any pleats or layers, sometimes with a side slit for easy movement. This style is worn on special occasions.

Trail

A trail lehenga has an extra portion of fabric attached to the back of the skirt to create a train.

References

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