Lichtenstein House
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Lichtenstein House, frequently called just Lichtenstein or Little Roman, was a historical building in the Altstadt of Frankfurt am Main and has an interesting architectural history, which combines the Gothic and the Baroque style. It was located in a residential block of the Römerberg (lit. 'Roman Mountain'), south of a building called Römer (lit. 'Roman'). The address was Römerberg 11.
While it was a popular trade fair in the Middle Ages, it became known as a treasured lookout and a venue of the European court societies in celebration of the coronations of Roman-German kings and emperors which took place at the Römerberg in the Early Modern Age. In the first half of the 20th century, Lichtenstein was one of the hubs of the art scene in Frankfurt.
In March 1944, the Lichtenstein House was nearly completely consumed by fire after the bombing of Frankfurt by the Allies of World War II. However, the mostly intact enclosing walls were not demolished until 1946 by a storm. Shortly afterwards, the building was rebuilt in a modern aesthetic, so that it now has to be considered among the lost historic monuments of Frankfurt's Altstadt.
From the Time of Origin to the Baroque Renovation (1326–1725)

The Lichtenstein House was first mentioned in two official certificates in 1326.[1][2] Moreover, according to the respective fascicle of the Institute for Municipal History, at that time the house was labelled as the parent house of a patrician family called Schurge zu Lichtenstein.[3] However, a statement from this period describing what the house looked like does not seem to exist. As a matter of fact, specific information from the time the building was built is entirely missing. Still, the early architectural history can approximately be reconstructed due to analogies, as the house, which can be verified to have been a Gothic stone house at its core, is part of roughly twenty buildings in Frankfurt which belong to the same type and resemble each other tremendously.
The core of the Altstadt (including the Römerberg) was already so populous around 1150 that the first city expansion became necessary. The stone buildings of the nearby Roman complex were first mentioned in the early 14th century. It is probable that the construction of the core of Lichtenstein House was also done during that time. One look at the size of the lot in comparison to the surrounding lots of the Schrothaus (address: Römerberg 15) and Jungfrau (address: Römerberg 15) Houses furthermore suggests that the building was established on two lots of previous constructions that were combined for this new construction. Such an approach is in fact documented regarding another Gothic stone building – the Stone House (German: Steinerne Haus) at the market.

Nevertheless, on the one hand Walter Sage argues that the position of the eaves as well as the small roof towers (compare painting by Caspar Merian), which was not come across on buildings until the late Gothic period in Frankfurt, indicate that the new construction was built in the late 15th century.[4] On the other hand, the art historian and connoisseur of the Altstadt of Frankfurt, Fried Lübbecke, proposed that the house was built in the 14th century. Both views can however easily be combined because a Lichtenstein House which was built in the early 14th century and had some parts of the roof altered while the remaining construction was kept is documented.[5] Having said that, it remains uncertain whether the Schurge patrician family, who added the name of the house to their family name, as did some later owners of the house, or whether the slightly more famous Glauburg patrician family, who owned the Lichtenstein House as of 1460,[5] constructed the building due to the records being incomplete.
The etymology of the name of the house should be located in a family name that was transferred onto the building as this is the case for a majority of houses in the Altstadt.[6] The last name Lichtenstein appears numerous times in surviving certificates from the 14th century, even though there are variant spellings due to a lack of orthography back in the days. There is no evidence for a direct correlation between the Lichtenstein family and the eponymous house. Thus, it can only be speculated that the family owned the previous building structures, which were then purchased by the Schurge family for reconstruction in the early 14th century.
Notwithstanding the above, Lichtenstein was just like its constructional relatives (like Fürsteneck House, which was built on Fahrgasse street in 1362, or the already mentioned Stone House, constructed in 1464) and was above all characterised by the wise and anticipatory choice of location by the building owner. Situated near the city gate, called Fahrtor, and through which trade articles were shipped across the Main to the city of Frankfurt, Lichtenstein House was a welcoming and certainly a protection against the constantly threatening firestorms of the timber framing constructions due to its fireproof vaults.
Even the municipal administration was afraid of the danger and stored all of the important documents and privileges in the 1808 dismantled vault of the tower of the fortress near the city gate Leonhardstor. It did so until the town hall near the Römerberg, which was purchased in 1405, was expanded in 1438 by a lithic archive tower.[7]
The trade fair of Frankfurt, which was already extremely important in the 14th century, was closely linked to trade items. Tax accounting from this period shows that some homeowners earned more money by accommodating fair visitors than during the rest of the year. Lichtenstein House, however, might very well have attracted particularly wealthy fair goers because of the size of its rooms, which were very luxurious for the time. Hence, a document from the year 1474 explaining that a total of 48 spare beds were available in the entire house does not come as a surprise.[3]

During the Reformation movement, Johann von Glauburg, who was one of the most important political personalities of the 16th century in Frankfurt, lived in Lichtenstein House.[5] In 1526, he went back to his hometown after his studies, where he became a juryman as early as 1532. Later on he was a long reigning mayor of Frankfurt and was a skilled diplomat.
As of 1562 Frankfurt became, apart from being the city of the election of the Holy Roman Emperor, also the city of the coronation of the Holy Roman Emperor. As result, Römerberg became the location where these regularly held ceremonies took place. Hence, the worth of the building was probably multiplied again. The well positioned window seats that were made available for rent during these celebrations brought the respective owner significant revenues, similar to the aforementioned possibility to accommodate fair visitors. Although exact numbers for Lichtenstein House concerning this matter have not been preserved, analogies can be drawn once again between Lichtenstein and other buildings in similar conditions. The fact that the enormous amount of windows in most of the buildings facing the Römerberg can only be explained in terms of the high window rent that can be achieved can serve as further confirmation.
Soon after a courtyard was probably constructed. It reached west of the Lichtenstein House to the Kerbengasse and its late Gothic remains with the emblem of the Glauburg family were captured in some drafts by Carl Theodor Reiffenstein in the middle of the 19th century.[4] Regarding its unadorned useful qualities, the courtyard probably served for the longest time more as a camp than as a dwelling place and also disposed of a highly spacious vaulted cellar, that was used without exception by all of the owners of the Lichtenstein House to stock wine.[5]
On the famous bird's eye view map by Matthäus Merian, which shows Frankfurt in the year 1628, the rear of the house is depicted in detail for the first time. According to this map, there was a distinctive stair tower in the courtyard which was added to the back and was positioned between Lichtenstein House and the rear house of the Kerbengasse. This stair tower belonged to the late Gothic period as well as to Early Renaissance from a stylistic perspective.
From Baroque Renovations to the Second World War (1725–1944)
Lichtenstein changed its proprietor once again in 1694 and was passed on to the Leerse family, who had immigrated from Breda (Netherlands) to Frankfurt in the 17th century. It was also during this time that the alternative house name Zum kleinen Römer (lit., "to the little Roman") first appeared,[8] which can certainly be traced back to the stepped gable of the northern and southern firewalls as well as to the stone architecture that appeared nowhere else on the Römerberg.
Gothic constructions were not really considered as worth seeing due to the contemporary taste of the dawning 18th century, which is why they were dismantled in huge numbers or massively reconstructed in a baroque fashion. In comparison, Johann Georg Leerse, the landlord at the time, proceeded more carefully during the renovation of the house that was planned in 1725 and executed by Louis Remy de la Fosse, an architect from Darmstadt. De la Fosse stood out because he had previously built the Residential Palace Darmstadt and he would later get recognition in Frankfurt for his work on the Römerberg as well. In this regard the Holzhausen aristocratic family from Frankfurt entrusted him only two years later in 1727 with the construction of the Little Holzhausen palace (“Holzhausenschlösschen”), which was named after the family and is situated to this day in the park Holzhausen (“Holzhausenpark”). The palace was interestingly enough built on top of the foundation walls of a medieval water castle which belonged to the potential builder-owners of Lichtenstein House, the Schurge zu Lichtenstein family, in the late 14th century.[9]
Probably similar to the alterations from two centuries ago, the renovation only profoundly changed the roof of the Lichtenstein House in its substance by imposing a wall dormer. The appearance of the front of the house was harmonised and architectural elements like windows and portals were converted to Baroque style. The rooms of the first floor, which look out onto the Römerberg, were furnished with high quality stucco on the ceiling, although the execution suggests that the stucco on the ceilings comes from the middle of the 18th century.[8]
The building changed its owner again in 1774 and descended to the Manskopf family, who were a family of wine merchants from Frankfurt, as inheritance (German: fideicommissum) for Leerse's great-grandson Jakob Philipp Manskopf, who, as a consequence, had to call himself Leerse.[5] They demanded to carefully renovate the building once again in 1777. The rear house at the Kerbengasse was exposed up to its late Gothic ground floor and the entries to the street were walled up and transformed into windows. The floors above were rebuilt imperceptibly from an architectural point of view. An entry from the courtyard and across a staircase, that was decorated in the style of Rococo, was also built.
At that time, the downfall of the Holy Roman Empire was already in full swing and the Römerberg only witnessed two more ostentatious imperial coronations in the 1790s. The building was at the centre of European history one more time when Frederick William III of Prussia, the future king of one of the new European great powers, met his future wife Duchess Louise of Mecklenburg-Strelitz at a ball in Lichtenstein House on 14 March 1793.[10]
In 1806, the Holy Roman Empire fell apart after nearly one millennium, causing the end of imperial coronations and the waning importance of the fair. As a result, the Altstadt of Frankfurt was declining rapidly in the 19th century and, along with it, Lichtenstein House fell into a deep sleep and into a time where it was not truly appreciated by the yet again altered prevailing taste. Just like some other houses at the Römerberg, the façade of Lichtenstein nearly fell victim to a neoclassicist renovation in 1822, but this was never fulfilled.[8]
Especially in the second half of the 19th century, the house was more likely saved from complete ruin by the massive construction than by the several half-timbered buildings of the Altstadt. This construction method kept the rents at a level that did not expose Lichtenstein House to utter misappropriation. Nonetheless, contemporary pictures of the photographer Carl Friedrich Mylius depict the house as completely disfigured with shattered windows because of large promotional signs on the face of the house.
According to an 1877 address book from Frankfurt, Lichtenstein House, in which the Frankfurt historian and school reformer Anton Kirchner worked as a school tutor for the Manskopf family at the beginning of the century, was by now only a real estate that was rented by the simpleminded middle and working class. At that time the family who owned the property already had a residential address on a terrain known as Fischerfeld, where newly built and, for the period, luxurious neighbourhoods of wide scope had been constructed in a classicist fashion. However, Gustav D. Manskopf, at the time the head of the family, still acted as generous patron. One of his most popular donations was for the newly consecrated bronze Well of Justice (Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen in German) at the Römerberg in 1887.
Shortly before World War I, the building was bought by the city and refurbished comprehensively. During the process, how well the original building structure had been treated during the past centuries was discovered as the initial timber beams with their Gothic painting were still below the stuccoed ceiling and the former pointed arches were still visible behind the plaster of the circular arches on the ground floor.[10] After the careful renovations came to an end, the city made Lichtenstein House available to the art world of Frankfurt. The so-called artist's kitchen was for example held in the yard in the beginning of the 1920s. The rooms were used in equal measure as living spaces and galleries for purposes of display by artists such as Rudolf Gudden, Hans Brasch and Wilhelm Reiss.[8]
From Second World War to Present Day (1944–)
During World War II the roof of the building was severely damaged by incendiary bombs. This was the result of the first serious air attack on 4 October 1943. During the Frankfurt bombing in March 1944, which annihilated the entire medieval old town in a matter of hours, Lichtenstein House too was burned to the ground. The enclosing walls survived the attack nearly altogether due to the massive size of construction and for lack of direct hits by explosive bombs.[11] Hence, the house was comparatively well preserved.
From an art-historical perspective and from a point of view of urban construction, the insufficient safeguard of the ruin after the war is regrettable. In contrast, the Roman building nearby was safeguarded right after the end of the combat operation. Until the end of 1945 more and more (but fortunately small) parts of the unstable façade had caved in as a result of frost damage. After that, in the beginning of 1946, a severe storm demolished everything with the exception of the arch openings towards the Römerberg so that in 1948 it was decided to clear away the remains,[5] although the reconstruction had already been assessed at 380 000 Reichsmark.[10]
In the 1950s, the parcels of land of the former houses in Römerberg 3–17 as well as Lichtenstein House were built on in a historical fashion. Even though the houses invoke the architecture of their predecessors at least on a basic level, for example due to slight corbeling opposite of the ground floor, the original parcellation of the area is not recognisable anymore. Thus, from today's point of view the non-reconstruction of Lichtenstein House seems incomprehensible considering its historical and architectural importance and the degree of deconstruction of other reconstructed bourgeois houses (such as the Goethe House or the Stone House) after the war. Then again, the parcellation of the area has relatively hardly been changed in contrast to the antebellum condition, meaning that a reconstruction of the building would be possible in the medium-term.


