Marianne Chapuisat
Swiss mountaineer (born 1969)
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Marianne Chapuisat (born 17 January 1969) is a Swiss mountaineer. Chapuisat is recognized as being the first woman to summit an eight-thousander in the winter season.
Background
Chapuisat was born in Vevey, Switzerland on 17 January 1969.[1] At age 17, she joined a local alpine club and began mountaineering.[2]
In 1991, Chapuisat summited Aconcagua, her highest summit to date.[3]
On 10 February 1993, Chapuisat successfully summitted Cho Oyu, becoming the first woman to summit one of world's highest peaks during the winter season.[4] It would take 25 years before another woman would match her accomplishment, when Elisabeth Revol summited Nanga Parbat in 2018.[5]
Chapuisat later described her successful summit as "beginner's luck", as she considered herself only a part time mountaineer. It would be several years before she returned to the Himalayas. In 2000, she attempted to be the first Swiss woman to summit Mount Everest.[1][6] Chapuisat had to turn back 180 meters from the summit due to poor weather.[7]
In 2003, Chapuisat summited Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I. In 2005, she summited Nanga Parbat.[1] Chapuisat completed all of her four summits alpine-style, without using supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters.[7]