Monte San Giuliano

By late antiquity, the ancient city of Eryx had declined in importance, although the site remained inhabited and continued to have strategic value.^[2] After the Byzantine Empire reconquered Sicily in the 6th century during the Gothic War (535–554), the island remained an important link in the central Mediterranean and a key source of grain for the empire.^[4][5]

Direct evidence for Erice in the Byzantine period is limited. Contemporary writers such as Procopius do not mention the site, and what evidence survives suggests that it was less important than larger centres in western Sicily.^[4] However, later local tradition, recorded by Castronovo, suggests that the site may have functioned as a kastron (fortress), making use of the existing Elymian-Punic fortifications to defend against early raids from the sea. Castronovo also suggests that the shift from pagan to Christian worship may have begun at this time, with the area of the Temple of Venus possibly reused for Christian purposes.^[6]

Despite these traditions, archaeological evidence indicates that the site remained secondary to larger towns in western Sicily, such as Lilybaeum (Marsala). In the 9th century, Byzantine control of the island came to an end as Sicily passed under Muslim rule, bringing significant changes to the surrounding landscape and patterns of settlement.^[5]

After the Muslim conquest of Sicily in the 9th century, the island underwent major social, economic, and cultural changes, and became more closely connected to North Africa and the wider Mediterranean world.^[7]

In western Sicily, archaeological evidence shows a dense network of rural settlements during this period, especially in the 10th and 11th centuries. These settlements were often located near water sources and were linked to intensive farming, forming part of a well-developed agricultural landscape.^[8][9] Historical accounts recorded by Castronovo identify several of these areas—later known as casali—as having developed from earlier Muslim farming communities, particularly in places such as Custonaci and Buseto Palizzolo.^[10]

This pattern is also reflected in place names. The geographer Muhammad al-Idrisi, writing at the court of Roger II of Sicily, referred to Monte Erice as Jabal Ḥāmid, preserving an Arabic name associated with the site.^[2] Castronovo suggests that the name may refer to a local ruler or leader connected with the mountain.^[10]

By contrast, there is little evidence for a major settlement on the mountain itself during this period. The surrounding countryside appears to have been more heavily populated, suggesting that most people lived in scattered rural communities rather than on the summit.

In later centuries, Monte San Giuliano expanded its territory by incorporating these former settlements, many of which had Islamic origins. This reflects a shift from a dispersed rural landscape to a more centralised fortified town.^[11] This process was later formalised in administrative privileges that claimed authority over the wide area known as the Agro Ericino.^[10]

The Norman conquest of Sicily began in 1061 and was completed by the end of the 11th century, bringing the island under a new kingdom that combined Latin, Greek, and Islamic traditions.^[5]

In western Sicily, the conquest was secured by Roger I.^[12] Archaeological and historical evidence suggests that this period saw a reorganisation of settlement, with people moving from scattered rural communities into fortified towns.^[8][13]

At Monte San Giuliano, this change can be seen in different contemporary accounts. The geographer Muhammad al-Idrisi, writing in the mid-12th century, described the site as centred on an "abandoned fortress" surrounded by farmland, suggesting a period of decline.^[2] A few decades later, however, the traveller Ibn Jubayr (c. 1185) described a fortified settlement with houses, vineyards, and plentiful water. His account shows that by the late 12th century the site had become inhabited again and was of strategic importance.^[2]

This development is often linked to Norman policies that encouraged the settlement of Christian populations in defensible locations. More broadly, it formed part of a wider pattern in which hilltop sites were strengthened and developed as centres of administration and defence.^[13] Castronovo notes that the Normans reused the large stones of the ancient fortifications when building their own structures, reinforcing gates and adapting the existing walls.^[14]

Archaeological evidence indicates that a castle was built at this time on the site of the ancient Temple of Venus, now known as the Castle of Venus.^[15] Over the following decades, Monte San Giuliano developed into a fortified settlement, attracting population and forming the basis of the later medieval town.

According to later tradition recorded by Castronovo, the name Monte San Giuliano is linked to a legend from the Norman conquest. It tells of Saint Julian appearing on the walls during a siege and helping Roger I’s forces capture the site. The mountain was then said to have been named in his honour.^[14][16]

In the 12th and 13th centuries, Sicily came under the rule of the Hohenstaufen dynasty, particularly during the reign of Frederick II. His rule is associated with strong central authority and continued administrative development. During this time, Sicily remained linked to the wider political system of the Holy Roman Empire, and the royal court became an important centre of cultural and intellectual life.^[5]

According to Castronovo, Frederick II regarded Monte San Giuliano as an important defensive site in western Sicily. In 1241, a royal privilege formalised the town’s authority over a wide surrounding area by incorporating many rural settlements and former Arab casali into a single administrative district, known as the Università. This made Monte San Giuliano the main administrative centre of the Agro Ericino.^[17][11]

After Frederick II’s death in 1250, Sicily entered a period of instability as different powers competed for control. During the reign of his son Manfred, Monte San Giuliano was part of a contested region in western Sicily. A local rebellion against Manfred is recorded in 1260, linked to the wider struggle between supporters of the Pope (Guelphs) and supporters of the Emperor (Ghibellines).^[18] Later tradition suggests that many inhabitants of the town supported the Guelph side, which may have contributed to tensions with Manfred’s rule.^[17]

At the same time, the town continued to develop as a fortified centre. Archaeological evidence shows that earlier defences were reused and strengthened in the 13th century, with parts of the walls and towers rebuilt using construction methods typical of the period.^[19] This included reinforcing key towers, such as those near Porta Spada, to meet the demands of more advanced siege warfare.^[17]

Information about daily life in the town comes from notarial records of the late 13th and early 14th centuries. These show property transactions, farming activity, and the presence of a Jewish community living alongside Christian residents, without a clearly separate district.^[20][21]

After the defeat of Manfred in 1266, Sicily came under the control of the Angevin dynasty. Their rule was short and unstable, and ended with the uprising known as the Sicilian Vespers in 1282, after which the island passed to the Crown of Aragon. According to Castronovo, Monte San Giuliano supported the Aragonese, a position that later brought the town royal favour.^[22]

Under Aragonese rule, Monte San Giuliano remained an important centre in western Sicily. From the late 13th and especially the 14th century, the town’s development can be seen in the building and expansion of churches and monastic houses.^[23] The most important of these was the Chiesa Matrice, founded in 1312 by Frederick III of Aragon. Castronovo notes that the king often stayed in the town during his wars with the Angevins, and that the church and its bell tower also had a defensive role.^[22] Other foundations included Santissimo Salvatore^[24] and Spirito Santo^[25], supported by local noble families.^[22]

At the same time, parts of the Elymian-Punic Walls of Erice were rebuilt and extended. Sections of the eastern walls near Porta Castellammare date to the medieval period, while parts of the southern circuit extend beyond the earlier line of the ancient fortifications.^[19][3] These changes reflect the growth of the town during this period.^[22]

In the later Middle Ages, Monte San Giuliano had a long and often difficult relationship with the nearby port city of Trapani. Although the town declined in size by the 15th century, it continued to resist attempts by Trapani to control its trade and territory.^[26] Disputes between the two towns over land use and grazing rights were frequent.^[22]

Trapani tried to limit Monte San Giuliano’s trade by taxing its wine, controlling grain sales, and restricting commerce. In response, the town developed its own strategies, including setting up a grain outlet (caricatore) at Bonagia to avoid dependence on Trapani. It also opposed attempts by Trapani’s citizens to acquire its land and defended its traditional rights.^[26]

Despite these pressures, Monte San Giuliano remained autonomous and, in 1393, received privileges from King Martin I equal to those of Trapani.^[26]

The late 15th century also saw the end of the town’s Jewish community. In 1492, following the Alhambra Decree issued under Aragonese rule, the Jewish population was expelled.^[22]

From the 16th century, under Spanish (Habsburg) rule, Monte San Giuliano developed as both a defensive stronghold and an important religious centre. The layout of the town also reflected clear social differences. Small houses for labourers stood alongside large palaces owned by local noble families. According to Tusa, these larger buildings often grew gradually by joining together neighbouring properties, creating the complex courtyards that are still a feature of the town today.^[2]

During the Counter-Reformation, the town saw a major increase in religious activity. Several religious orders, including the Jesuits and Carmelites, founded monasteries and charitable institutions. This led to the construction and expansion of many churches. At its height, the town was traditionally said to have around a hundred churches, many decorated with elaborate Baroque interiors funded by wealthy families.^[27]

The town’s layout was organised around three main streets leading from the gates—Porta Spada, Porta Carmine, and Porta Trapani—which met at the Balio plateau. This area, dominated by the Castle of Venus, was the administrative and military centre. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the castle served as the residence of the Spanish governor (Castellano) and formed part of the coastal defence system against Barbary pirates. The bell tower of the Chiesa Matrice was also used as a watchtower.^[27]

Much of the town’s present appearance dates from this period. Its narrow, winding streets, patterned cobblestone paving (basolato), and lack of large open squares reflect both defensive needs and the limits of the mountain setting. While wealthy families owned land in the surrounding Agro Ericino, their presence in the town is still visible in features such as stone doorways and wrought-iron balconies.^[2][27]

In 1734, Sicily came under the rule of the Bourbons. During this period, Monte San Giuliano remained an important administrative and judicial centre for western Sicily, overseeing a large rural district.^[28]

According to Castronovo, the 18th and early 19th centuries saw continued development of the town’s religious and civic life. Local society was dominated by a clerical and aristocratic elite, and several churches were completed or refurbished in the Baroque style. Public buildings, including communal granaries, were also expanded.^[28]

At the same time, the town began to lose population. As the threat from Barbary pirates declined, people increasingly moved away from the hilltop to settlements in the surrounding countryside and along the coast. Areas such as Bonagia, with its tunny fishery (tonnara), and Custonaci became more economically important, reducing the dominance of the mountain settlement.^[28]

In the mid-19th century, Monte San Giuliano became involved in the movement for Italian unification. Local elites and professionals grew dissatisfied with Bourbon rule, and in 1860 the town supported the Expedition of the Thousand. It was among the first in the region to declare for Giuseppe Garibaldi and contributed volunteers to the campaign.^[28]

After unification, the town continued to be known as Monte San Giuliano until 1934, when a royal decree restored the name Erice.

• List of historic buildings in Erice