No One Mourns the Wicked (climb)
Bouldering route in Colorado
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No One Mourns the Wicked is a grade 8C+ (V16) bouldering problem at Thunder Ridge in the South Platte region of Colorado. It was first climbed by American climber Nathaniel Coleman on 3 December 2024 and suggested the grade of 9A.[1][2] The problem was repeated by Hamish McArthur on 4 May 2025 in a single session, marking the first time a 9A graded boulder had been completed in one day.[3][4] Yannick Flohé downgraded the Boulder to 8C+ (V16).
| No One Mourns the Wicked | |
|---|---|
  | |
| Location | South Platte, Colorado, United States |
| Coordinates | 39°06′41″N 105°13′31″W |
| Climbing area | Thunder Ridge |
| Route type | Bouldering |
| Technical grade | 8C+ (V16) |
| First ascent (FA) | Nathaniel Coleman, 3 December 2024 |
Description
The climb is a sit-start extension to the existing Defying Gravity 8C (V15) boulder, which was first climbed by Daniel Woods in 2013.[1][5] The full problem consists of 21 hand moves: a nine-move low start section graded approximately 8B (V13), followed by the 12-move Defying Gravity sequence.[1][2] The climb is located on a steep face at Thunder Ridge, with low-friction rails and crimps, and involves multiple hard dynos. The crux is the starting move of Defying Gravity, which Gripped magazine called "one of the single hardest starting moves of any problem anywhere", performed after nine moves of difficult climbing.[1]
The problem's name, like Defying Gravity, comes from a song in the Broadway musical Wicked.[1]
History
The low start of Defying Gravity was a longstanding project within the American bouldering community, and part of Daniel Woods' original vision when he set the route.[1][2] Coleman began working on the problem after completing the fourth ascent of Defying Gravity on 18 November 2023, following eight sessions. He then spent 14 additional sessions on No One Mourns the Wicked, completing it on 3 December 2024.[1] The ascent was documented by filmmaker Ben Neilson for Mellow Climbing, with the film released on 1 January 2025.[2]
On 4 May 2025, Hamish McArthur made the first repeat of the problem, completing it in a single session. McArthur arrived at the boulder at 12:00 PM, sent Defying Gravity by 1:30 PM, and completed the full problem at 2:47 PM.[6] This marked the first time a 9A boulder had been completed in a single day.[7] McArthur had previously climbed Megatron one month earlier, giving him experience at the grade to confirm Coleman's proposed rating.[3][4] When asked about the crux in an interview, McArthur stated "I don’t think a move has ever been better suited to me".[7] The german climber Yannick Flohé sent this boulder in April 2026 and suggested the grade of 8C+ (V16).
Ascents
No One Mourns the Wicked has been ascended by:
- 1st. Nathaniel Coleman on 3 December 2024[1]
- 2nd. Hamish McArthur on 4 May 2025[3]
- 3rd. Becket Hsin [8]
- 4th. Yannick Flohé
See also
- Return of the Sleepwalker - first 9A boulder in the US, by Daniel Woods
- Megatron - second 9A boulder in the US, by Shawn Raboutou