Oriane Bertone
French rock climber (born 2005)
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Oriane Bertone (born March 10, 2005) is a French rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, but is also noted for her sport climbing and her bouldering.
Oriane Bertone, Giravuelta | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | French | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | March 10, 2005 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 167 cm (5 ft 6 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Ape index | +16cm (6 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
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| Known for | Youngest person to solve a V14 (8B+) boulder problem | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Climbing career
Rock climbing
In 2018, when she was 12 years old, Bertone became the youngest climber to send a V14 (8B+) graded boulder problem when she solved Golden Shadow in Rocklands (South Africa).[1] In 2020, aged 14, she redpointed the sport climbing route, Panonoramix et les cyclopes, in Saint Léger at grade 8c+ (5.14c).
Competition climbing
In 2019, she started competing in international youth competition climbing events, where she won multiple gold medals in both competition lead climbing and competition bouldering.
In 2021, Bertone made her IFSC Climbing World Cup debut at age 16 at the Boulder World Cup in Meiringen, where she advanced to the final and won a silver medal.[2]
In 2023, Bertone won her first IFSC Climbing World Cup gold medal at the Boulder World Cup in Prague, beating Janja Garnbret in doing so.[3] She went on to win a silver medal in bouldering at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships and secure a spot for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing first in the European Boulder and Lead Climbing Olympic Qualifier.[4][5]
In 2024, Bertone finished in eighth place in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[6]
In Feb 2026, she won the inaugural Pro Climbing League in London, beating Janja Garnbret in the final.
Personal life
Rankings
Source:[11]
European Youth Championships
| Discipline | 2019
Youth B |
|---|---|
| Boulder | 1 |
| Lead | 1 |
Youth World Championships
| Discipline | 2019
Youth B |
|---|---|
| Boulder | 1 |
| Lead | 1 |
European Championships
| Discipline | 2022 |
|---|---|
| Boulder | 3 |
IFSC Climbing World Cup Overall Ranking
| Discipline | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Boulder | 3 | 6 | 4 | 10 | 1 |
IFSC World Cup
Source:[12]
Podiums
| Season | First | Second | Third | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2021 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2022 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2023 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| 2024 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2025 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
| 2026 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 2 | 9 | 1 | 12 |
Notable ascents
Boulder problems
8C (V15):
- Satan I Helvete - Bas, Fontainebleau (France) - 2020 [13]
8B+ (V14):
- Golden Shadow - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2018 [1]
- Super Tanker - Fontainebleau (France) - 2021 [14]
8B (V13):
- Psychopad - Réunion - 2017[15]
- Le Spartiate direct assis - Réunion - 2018[16]
- Fragile Steps - RockLands (South Africa) - 2017[17]
- Trafic - Fontainebleau - 2018
- The master Key - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
- Bio Affinity - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
- Ray of light - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
- Leopard cave extended - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
- Agamemnon - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
- Fata I Helvete - Fontainebleau - 2020
Redpointed routes
8c+ (5.14c):
- Panonoramix et les cyclopes - Saint Léger - 2020
8c (5.14b):
- Chykungunya - Réunion - 2018[18]
- Stay Kratom, stay home - Saint Léger - 2020
- Panonoramix - Saint Léger - 2020