Paul Ramsden (climber)
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(1987-90, BSc)
University of Birmingham
(2011-12, MSc)
 Ramsden on the Troll Wall, 2004 | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | 1969 (age 55–56)[1] Yorkshire, England[2] |
| Education | University of Sheffield (1987-90, BSc) University of Birmingham (2011-12, MSc) |
| Occupation | Occupational hygienist[2][3] |
| Website | About Paul Ramsden |
| Climbing career | |
| Type of climber | |
| Known for |
|
| First ascents |
|
| Updated on 21 April 2024 | |
Paul Ramsden (born 1969) is a British mountaineer and alpinist. He is internationally noted for his alpine climbing.[4][5][2] Ramsden was awarded the Piolet d'Or five times for alpine-style first ascents of extreme high-altitude routes in the Himalayas:[6] 2003, 2013 and 2016 with Mick Fowler (they were the first British winners of the award).[7] 2017 with Nick Bullock, and in 2023 with Tim Miller.[8] Ramsden is notably media and publicity-shy (no social media presence and minimal sponsors),[7][9] and in 2023 was described by the Financial Times as "The most decorated mountaineer ever (and why you’ve never heard of him)".[2]
Ramsden is a strong advocate of lightweight 'alpine style' climbing and rejects the use of fixed ropes or other expedition climbing supports (e.g. oxygen or porters).[4][9] In 2023, he said: ".. I am an alpinist and would never consider climbing in another way. If I couldn't climb alpine style, then I would stop climbing. It's the only ethical way to climb big mountains, and to be honest any other way is simply cheating."[10] Ramsden feels the Piolet awards suit the British style of climbing,[7] saying: "Small teams, exploration, alpine style... that's exactly what the Piolets d'Or aim to promote, and that's how we learn to climb".[4]
Ramsden attributes his longevity in the notably dangerous world of high-altitude extreme alpine climbing to experiencing the deaths of climbing partners at a younger age—particularly one when he was 17.[4][2]
Notable ascents and awards
- 2002 Northwest face of Siguniang (ED+, VII AI6 M6, 1,500m, Sichuan). FA with Mick Fowler; they won the 2003 Piolet d'Or, and the 2002 Golden Piton Award for this climb.[11][12]
- 2007 Northwest Ridge of Manamcho (TD, Scottish V, 700m, Tibet). FA with Mick Fowler; known as the Matterhorn of the Nyenchen Tanglha.[13]
- 2012 Northeast Buttress ("Prow") of Shiva (ED+, 700m, India) with Mick Fowler; they won the 2013 Piolet d'Or for this climb, their second.[11][16]
- 2013 Southwest Face of Kishtwar Kailash (ED, Scottish VI, 1,500m, India). FA with Fowler.[17][18]
- 2015 North Face of Gave Ding (ED+, 1,600m, Nepal). FA with Mick Fowler; they won the 2016 Piolet d'Or for this climb, which was their third.[11][21]
- 2016 North buttress of Nyainqentangla South East (1,600m, ED+) in Tibet. FA with Nick Bullock; they won the 2016 Piolet d'Or for this climb, which was Ramsden's fourth.[7][22][5]
- 2022 North face (Phantom Line) of the Jugal Spire (1,300m, ED, 5-days) in the Jugal Himal, Nepal. FA with Tim Miller; they won the 2023 Piolet d'Or for this climb, which was Ramsden's fifth.[2][8]
- 2023 North Face of Surma-Sarovar (6,574m), Salimor Khola Valley in the Gurans Himal with Tim Miller.[23][24][25]
Personal life
Like his long-term climbing partner Mick Fowler, Ramsden is not a professional climber and is self-employed as a full-time occupational hygienist through his service company, 'Integral HSE'.[2][3]
Bibliography
- Ramsden, Paul (2023). "The Jugal Project: The First Ascent of a Striking Spire in Nepal". American Alpine Journal. 65 (97). American Alpine Club.
- Ramsden, Paul (2017). "The Wrong Valley: Climbing a Hidden Wall on a 7,000-Meter Peak in Tibet". American Alpine Journal. 59 (91). American Alpine Club: 10–18.
- Ramsden, Paul (2016). "Positive Vibes: The first ascent of Gave Ding in western Nepal". American Alpine Journal. 58 (90). American Alpine Club: 56–65.
- Ramsden, Paul (2015). "Hagshu, Northeast Face and Traverse". American Alpine Journal. 57 (89). American Alpine Club: 320–325.
- Ramsden, Paul (2014). "Kishtwar Kailash, Southwest Face". American Alpine Journal. 56 (88). American Alpine Club: 337.