Pumari Chhish was first attempted by an Austrian group in 1974, who failed to climb or bypass the Yazghil Glacier on the north side of the peak.[3] In 1979, a Japanese group from the Hokkaido Alpine Association and an officer of the Pakistan Army from 29 Signal (a unit of the army's Corps of Signals) succeeded in climbing the mountain via a long route starting from the Khunyang Glacier, well to the west of the peak. They first had to cross a significant col to access the upper Yazghil Glacier; they then ascended the north ridge of Pumari Chhish.[4][5]
According to the Himalayan Index,[6] there have been no other successful ascents of Pumari Chhish.
After two unsuccessful attempts on this peak in 1999 and 2000 by Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Payne,[7] it was first climbed on June 12, 2007, by Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff. Among first ascents of peaks over 7000 metres, their 2,700 m (8,900 ft) climb was highly technical (they rate it ABO 5.10 M6 A1). They made the ascent in pure alpine style over six days. Their achievement earned them the lead article in the 2008 American Alpine Journal.[7]
The first successful ascent of Pumari Chhish East was via the south face on 29 June 2022.[2][8] The ascent was made by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan via a direct route they named The Crystal Ship and graded M7, 6b, A2, 1600m.[2] The successful climb was awarded one of the 2023 Piolets d'Or.[9]
Before the successful ascent, there had only been three previous attempts to climb this peak.[10][11]
