Shion Omata
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| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japanese | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | March 23, 2006 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Education | Nippon Sport Science University (Nittaidai) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 162 cm (5 ft 4 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Competition lead climbing | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | 2024 Asian Championships Lead Winner.[1] | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on February 27, 2025 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Shion Omata (小俣 史温, Omata Shion, born March 23, 2006)[2] is a Japanese rock climber who specializes in competition lead climbing.
Omata started climbing on the IFSC Climbing World Cup circuit in 2023, placing 8th and 5th in the Villars and Briançon lead world cups respectively.[3][4] He won the silver medal in the Wujiang world cup in his debut senior year.[5]
In 2024, Omata was a finalist in 4 of 6 of the Lead World Cups, earning bronze in Briançon and Seoul.[6][7] He also claimed the 2024 Lead title at the IFSC Climbing Asian Championships in Tai'an.[8]
World Cup
| Discipline[9] | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 4 | 2 | 10 |
World Championships
| Discipline[10] | Seoul 2025 |
|---|---|
| Lead | 12 |
World Youth Championships
| Discipline | 2022 Youth A[11] |
2023 Youth A[12] |
2024 Juniors[13] |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 5 | 2 | 3 |
Asian Championships
| Discipline | 2024[14] | 2026 |
|---|---|---|
| Lead | 1 | 3 |
Japan Cup
| Discipline[15] | 2019 | 2020 | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 | 2026 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 62 | 19 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 2 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 30 | 37 | - | 33 |