Tomoa Narasaki
Japanese rock climber (born 1996)
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Tomoa Narasaki (楢﨑 智亜, Narasaki Tomoa; born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and competition bouldering.
Tomoa Narasaki in Munich, 2017 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japanese | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | June 22, 1996 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation(s) | Professional sport climber and boulderer | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 169 cm (5 ft 7 in) [1] | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 58 kg (128 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Spouse | Akiyo Noguchi (m. 2021) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Ape index | +10 cm (4 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade |
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| Known for |
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Medal record
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| Updated on June 20, 2025 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Early life
Narasaki started climbing at age 10, together with Sachi Amma, in Sachi's family climbing gym. Previously, he had been training apparatus gymnastics.[2]
Climbing career
Competition climbing
Narasaki won the IFSC World Championships in bouldering in 2016 and 2019, and was also the overall winner of the IFSC Climbing World Cup for bouldering in 2016 and 2019.[3]
Narasaki formerly held the Japanese record for competition speed climbing with a time of 5.73 seconds, which he secured in March 2021 at the Climbing Japan Cup speed competition.[4] He devised the "Tomoa skip", a speed climbing technique to bypass one of the lower holds on the speed climbing wall.[5] The Tomoa skip is now implemented by nearly all competitive speed climbers.
In 2019, Narasaki qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo by winning the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships.[6] He went on to place fourth in the combined event at the Olympics.[7]
In 2023, Narasaki qualified for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing third in the combined event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships.[8] At the Olympics, he finished in tenth place in the semifinals of the combined event and did not move on to finals.[9]
Bouldering
On December 1, 2019, Narasaki became the sixth climber to flash a V14 (8B+) grade boulder after sending Decided in Mizugaki, Japan, on his first attempt.[10] In 2021, Narasaki sent Asagimadara V15 (8C) on his third attempt.[11] In December 2023, he flashed Gakidō, originally graded V16 (8C+), although Narasaki gave the boulder a grade of V14 after his send. Narasaki subsequently made the first ascent of the sit start to the climb, which he named Ashuradō and graded V15.
Personal life
On December 25, 2021, Narasaki and fellow Japanese climber Akiyo Noguchi announced their marriage on their respective social media pages.[12] On May 23, 2023, Akiyo gave birth to their first child, Keiyo.[13]
Narasaki's younger brother, Meichi Narasaki, is also a professional climber.[14]
Rankings
IFSC Climbing World Cup
| Discipline[15] | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 52 | - | - | - | 15 | 16 | 20 | 32 | - | - | - | |
| Bouldering | - | 26 | 30 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 6 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 7 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | 84 | 52 | 44 | 59 | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | 1 | 2 | 1 | - | - | - | - | - |
IFSC Climbing World Championships
Japan Cup
| Discipline[17] | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2020 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 | 2026 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 7 | 12 | - | - | - | - | 2 | 2 | 4 | - | 51 | 14 | 14 | 9 | - |
| Bouldering | - | 27 | 7 | 3 | 15 | 8 | 3 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 5 | 2 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 4 | 2 | 1 | - | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | - | - | 1 | 1 | - | 1 | - | 10 | - | - | - |
World Cup podiums
Olympic results
Source:[18]
