Tonnato (The Bear)
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Episode 9
| "Tonnato" | |
|---|---|
| The Bear episode | |
Dearborn Station clock tower, Chicago | |
| Episode no. | Season 4 Episode 9 |
| Directed by | Christopher Storer |
| Written by | Joanna Calo & Christopher Storer |
| Featured music | |
| Cinematography by | Andrew Wehde |
| Editing by | Megan Mancini |
| Production code | XCBV4009 |
| Original air date | June 25, 2025 |
| Running time | 39 minutes |
| Guest appearances | |
| |
"Tonnato" is the ninth episode of the fourth season of the American comedy-drama television series The Bear. It is the 37th overall episode of the series and was written by Joanna Calo & Christopher Storer and directed by Christopher Storer. It was released on Hulu on June 25, 2025, along with the rest of the season.
The series follows Carmen "Carmy" Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White), an award-winning New York City chef de cuisine, who returns to his hometown of Chicago to run his late brother Michael's failing Italian beef sandwich shop. With the financial backing of his uncle Jimmy (Oliver Platt) and help from his cousin Richie (Ebon Moss-Bachrach), sister Sugar (Abby Elliott), and chef Sydney (Ayo Edebiri), Carmy attempts to remodel the dingy Beef into warm and hospitable fine-dining destination called the Bear.
The episode garnered critical acclaim for the acting work of Jamie Lee Curtis as Donna Berzatto, and White as Carmy, whose performance during an attempted rapprochement between the recovering-alcoholic mother and her long-estranged son was described as "jaw-dropping" and "stunningly vulnerable."
Carmy delivers the box of photos to his mother (Jamie Lee Curtis), and spends time with her at her insistence. Donna tearfully apologizes for the way she treated her family, and takes responsibility for being cruel to her children, lying, yelling, and drinking. She confesses that she did not know how to help Michael (Jon Bernthal). She tells Carmy she has been sober for nearly a year. She hears about his accomplishments and is proud of him, and she asks if she can be a part of his life again. Carmy looks around his childhood home, visiting the dining room and looking at the empty chair at the head of the table. Carmy makes the roast chicken he learned at the French Laundry for Donna. While it's in the oven, he takes the photo box upstairs and stows it in a closet and then is drawn to a closed door. He enters the bedroom and looks around, a little disoriented at first, and then smiles fondly at a bedside copy of No Reservations by Anthony Bourdain. He finds Claire's (Molly Gordon) green sweatshirt on a shelf in the closet.
Sydney and Uncle Jimmy (Oliver Platt) have a heart-to-heart talk behind the restaurant; Jimmy apologizes for his fuckhead nephew and tells Sydney she's a hardworking professional and it's been a pleasure to watch her come into her own as a chef at the restaurant. Sydney calls Jimmy "Unc" for the first time.
Ebraheim (Edwin Lee Gibson) tentatively agrees to partner with Albert Schnur (Rob Reiner) in expanding the Beef-window business. Albert meets Computer (Brian Koppelman), who agrees that expansion is a good idea. Luca (Will Poulter) casually asks Tina (Liza Colón-Zayas) to make a "test" version of the pasta dish, which she unwittingly completes in just under three minutes. Chester (Carmen Christopher) comes to the restaurant with paperwork for Marcus to sign regarding the sale of his mom's house and acts jealous about Marcus working closely with tall, handsome Luca.
Carmy returns to the restaurant and tells Richie that he visited his mother. Richie initially thinks Carmy is messing with him but then admits "that's nice" and then retreats to another part of the restaurant. Carmy calls Jimmy from inside the fridge, and leaves a voicemail message that says "I think I messed this place up," apologizes, and expresses gratitude for his kindness to their family over many years. Carmy returns to the kitchen for pre-service and listens closely as Sydney chatters happily about Sweeps' (Corey Hendrix) success as their sommelier.
After receiving a call from Food & Wine, Natalie announces that the magazine has named Marcus in their class of Best New Chefs. Marcus texts his dad with the good news. Richie seeks reassurance about the future of the restaurant from Garrett (Andrew Lopez), who encourages him and reminds him "every night's the Super Bowl." Pete (Chris Witaske) calls Sydney to tell her that Carmy has written himself out of the updated partnership agreement, leaving the restaurant's ownership to her, Natalie, and Jimmy.
Context
- The picture of Unc and "his first wife, Aunt Gail" is a Ron Galella photo of Oliver Platt and his real-life wife Camilla Campbell at a 1992 AFI dinner honoring Sidney Poitier for his career as the star of films like the landmark Guess Who's Coming to Dinner.[1]
- While being weird with Marcus (Lionel Boyce) and Luca (Will Poulter), Chester (Carmen Christopher) mentions "the guy who sold Jordan's house in Deerfield." Michael Jordan's house in Deerfield-adjacent Highland Park was famously "unsellable" at the price point of $15 million and sat on the market for over a decade. It finally sold in December 2024 for $9.5 million.[2]
- Ebra and Albert (played by Rob Reiner, who, like Robert Townsend, is/was a notable film director in his own right) reference two cinematic bedrocks of American culture in the course of their business planning.
- Casablanca (film) – The last line of the 1942 wartime romance film, spoken by Humphrey Bogart's Rick to Claude Rains' character, is "Louis, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship."
- Schnur recommends himself as a consigliere, a job description popularized by Robert Duvall's performance as Tom Hagen, advisor to Corleone family in The Godfather film series.[3][a]
- Donna told Carmy he should wash the chicken first; he replied that washing chicken just splashes salmonella all over the kitchen sink.[4] In an article titled "Our Science, Your Choice," the U.S. Department of Agriculture states that "the best practice is not to wash poultry...washing, rinsing, or brining meat and poultry in salt water, vinegar, or lemon juice does not destroy bacteria."[5] Poultry needs to be cooked to an internal temperature, checked by meat thermometer, of 165 °F (74 °C) to destroy pathogenic bacteria.[5] Washing meat is a culturally informed aspect of home cooking.[6][7]
- According to Ninja: 1,000 Years of the Shadow Warrior (2013), Richie's inspirational quote of the day is a "ninja instructional poem": "Even if a ninja does not have impressive physical abilities, remember, the most vital thing is to have acute observation".[8]
- Marcus is named one of Food & Wine's best new chefs, which is an award Carmy once won.[9] Richie calls Marcus the same derogatory "best new" name he called Carmy in season one's "Hands", but this time with pride.[10]
Production
Writing
Joanna Calo and Christopher Storer wrote the teleplay for "Tonnato."[11]
Pop-culture podcast co-host Carla Temis commented on the look that Carmy gives Sydney just before Marcus is announced as a best new chef: "...the look that he gives her, you know, everybody's holding their breath...he's looking at her like as if they had already announced that it was her. And frankly, I stopped for a second. I was like, did I miss it? Did they already say her name? Because he was looking at her so with such certainty...he has so much faith in her...he admires her in a way that he could never think to admire himself...[he admires her] so deeply...But the way that he looks at her, it's not just that professional admiration...It's also, I think, in my opinion, a very tender look... [with] a lot of emotion behind it, beyond feeling proud of her...there is something softer and there is something deeper."[12] Host Erin Marlow added, "It's the way it's shot, too...everybody is looking at Nat except for him. And she doesn't even realize he's looking at her...[and] just the way [he looks, he clearly thinks], 'There's no way it could be anybody else. Of course, it's going to be Syd.'"[12]
Filming
According to actress Curtis, "We shot seasons three and four simultaneously. So the truth is, I did the scene with Sugar in the hospital, which was an entire episode. And two days later, I did my part at the wedding. And then the next day, my scene with Jeremy at the house. So it was a lot of Donna, which was not dissimilar to the Christmas episode where I came in for like a three-day bombardment and then was gone."[4] Curtis told Time magazine, "We both knew what we're doing. The script is beautiful. I learned that having a kid who you don't know how to help is one of the most powerless experiences as a parent...the powerlessness you feel when you can't actually help them—you can find people who can help them, but you can't. So the part of that scene that gets me every time is when she talks about Mike (Jon Bernthal). Because clearly Mike had that problem since he was a little boy."[4] About working with White, Curtis said, "He's just a beautiful performer. We use the term scene partner a lot in actor talk, but he's a scene partner. We don't rehearse it. We don't talk about it. We stay away from each other until it begins, and then it begins. And he has beautiful eyes, and they are expressive and soulful and sorrowful and very alive at times and very emotional at times. And I think you see all of that in this whole season, but in that scene in particular."[4]

It's a Fandom Thing highlighted Jeremy Allen White's acting work opposite Curtis as being particularly powerful because of his use of understatement and reserve: "He's sitting there, and he needs to hear this. This is something [Carmy] needs to hear. And he's forcing himself to, but it's taking everything in him to sit there. You can see that with the way he's shaking, and it's such an incredible performance. Because I know everybody talks about Jamie Lee Curtis. And yes, she's good, but that's a very loud performance. What Jeremy Allen White does in that moment is a very quiet performance, and to me that's more impactful than what she's doing. He's not a selfish actor, [which makes him] amazing to watch."[12]
Set decoration: Donna's house
- In a bedroom upstairs at his mom's house, Carmy finds a mass-market paperback edition of Anthony Bourdain's 2000 Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly.[13] In 2024, Food & Wine magazine published a profile of the Storers that began, "Not since Anthony Bourdain published the exposé-memoir Kitchen Confidential has a storyteller done more to deepen our understanding of restaurant culture than Christopher Storer, creator of the FX on Hulu original series The Bear, and his sister, chef and culinary producer Courtney Storer."[14] Jeremy Allen White read Kitchen Confidential to prep for The Bear season one and told the Cherry Bombe podcast, "I needed to find something that he wanted so badly, because nobody just wants to watch a guy who's angry, shouting at everybody all the time. There needs to be something there. I think what I really appreciated about the book, and what I kind of took away from it is, it's just so nice to listen to somebody talk about how much they love this thing. And then I could try to just make Carmy love it."[15] One music writer argued in 2025 that "Whether intentionally or blindly accidentally, the hit Emmy-winning series The Bear has Anthony Bourdain's DNA stitched into its underbelly. What Bourdain's many TV shows—he had a couple of series after the books, fully monetizing his late career popularity (respect), all boiled down to this: Becoming a better human."[16]
- The 3D puzzle hanging from the ceiling is a Pteranodon.
- There are stacks of compact discs on the dresser, and the walls of this room are decorated with "old show posters" for at least two Chicago punk bands, the Catburglars and Dillinger Four.[17]
- In the bedroom closet, otherwise stocked with button-down flannel shirts and ice skates, Carmy finds Dr. Dunlap's (Molly Gordon) green sweatshirt—last seen at a birthday party that must have been at least a dozen years ago.[18]
Set decoration: Elsewhere
- The office where Pete works has a skyline view of Chicago.
- The book in Sydney's locker is Spectrum: Heritage Patterns and Colors by Ros Byam Shaw.[19]
Music
The songs used in this episode are all reprises from previous episodes:
- The version of "Save It For Later" recorded by Eddie Vedder specifically for The Bear plays while Carmy explores a room upstairs at his mom's house; it previously featured over the opening credits of the main action of season three.
- "The Show Goes On" by Bruce Hornsby & The Range plays after the kitchen celebrates the news of Marcus' win; the song was previously featured in the opening minutes of season two, as Sydney and Carmy watched the old Beef sign come off the restaurant.
- "New Noise" by Refused has been used in multiple episodes, where it typically signals frustration and urgency, if not impeding crisis.[20]
Food
Donna described a dish of roasted red peppers that she was served while vacationing in Italy with Carmy's dad. Carmy identified the accompanying sauce as tonnato. Per Donna, it looked disgusting but was delicious.[21] Tonnato "refers culinarily to dishes that are somehow prepared with or accompanied by tuna."[22] The most well-known use of tonnato is in a veal dish called vitello tonnato.[22] Tonnato sauce is most commonly known from Piedmontese cuisine (vicinity of Milan, northern Italy, near the Alps), and is often used as a topping for cooked vegetables like asparagus and green beans.[21] Donna is presumably describing peperone tonnato, also known as peperoni tonnati, which is "charred red peppers in a mayonnaise-y tuna sauce".[23] One recipe from a restaurant in Milan calls for Carmagnola peppers, anchovies in Cantabrian oil, and Pantelleria capers.[24] A variation is tonnato–pepper rolls, or involtini di peperoni con crema al tonno.[25]
The contents of Donna's fridge seem to include a whole chicken, what is likely Italian sausage, and a pint glass, chilling for later use. Carmy makes roast chicken for Donna, the way he was trained by Thomas Keller at the French Laundry in Yountville, California. In the Bouchon cookbook, Keller recommends brining the chicken for restaurant prep but not for home cooks. Key steps are patting the chicken completely dry, and trussing the chicken with butcher's twine. The trussing stage is where the pope's nose comes into play.[26][27] Per Keller, season the chicken generously with salt and black pepper, face the breast up and the legs to the back of the oven, and finish by adding fresh thyme leaves to the pan, "and baste the birds several times with the juices and thyme leaves."[28] Roast for 10 minutes per 1 pound (0.45 kg) at 475 °F (246 °C).[28][29] The show did not depict Carmy's cooking process, just the final dish, which at least one reviewer felt was a missed opportunity for a "great, dramatic, full-circle moment".[30]
Reception
Critical reviews

Rolling Stone TV critic Alan Sepinwall commended Donna and Carmy's kitchen-table reunion for its "jaw-dropping performances from both Jamie Lee Curtis and Jeremy Allen White. At times during the conversation, Carmy looks like a cornered animal who would rather be anywhere else on the planet than listening to his mother talk about all the ways she hurt and failed him. At others, he looks like these are the words he's been waiting his whole life to hear."[31]
Collider called it "one of the best episodes of the season, all thanks to the emotionally-charged performances by White and Curtis."[32] Another Collider writer declared that this episode certified Curtis as "the show's greatest guest star of all time" with a "beautiful and moving arc, and easily the role of a lifetime for Curtis."[33]
The A.V. Club's Jenna Scherer awarded the episode an A−, stating that the key Donna–Carmy scene demonstrated as much as anything all the ways that Carmy has himself matured since returning to Chicago, and yet "Anyone who grew up with an emotionally unstable parent knows that letting yourself believe they can change is the most terrifying of propositions...After spending four seasons inside Carmy's head, we know that his offer to make Donna lunch is a huge deal for him. When was the last time he cooked a meal that was about expressing his love for another person rather than trying to prove something to himself?...Carm whips up a plate for his mom but not for himself. Despite how far he's come, our boy still hasn't figured out that he deserves care and feeding just as much as anyone else."[34]
Vulture awarded the episode four out of five stars, with Marah Eakin commenting, "...it’s pretty sweet that the Food & Wine nod went to Marcus, right? He's had an awful year and the work he's done has seemed visionary. We've heard an awful lot about Syd's scallop dish this season, but everything that Marcus put out has felt beyond creative. Not bad for a kid who started at McDonald's."[17] The Decider recapper came into the episode with low expectations but found warm spots such as when "Cicero tells [Sydney] how much of a pleasure it's been to watch her growth and apologizes again for his 'fuckhead nephew'...Then they hug it out," while being alienated by Chester's (Carmen Christopher) energy in "disturbing and demeaning moments" where he "becomes a bumbling, awkward, sweaty mess" over Luca (Will Poulter) and Marcus' friendship, "Okay, okay—take it easy, Chester. Christ."[35]
The New York Times described the key scene between White and Curtis as "...riveting...rooted in what The Bear does well, dramatizing how difficult and messy it can be when people try to put their most complicated feelings into words. The conversation doesn't end with everything hunky dory, nor does it end with Carmy storming out and saying, 'Too little, too late.' Instead he thanks Donna, [and cooks for her]...It's progress.[36]
Accolades
TVLine named Jeremy Allen White their Performer of the Week for his acting in the episode. Dave Nemetz commended "White's stunningly vulnerable work," arguing that "in Season 4, White...found his finest moments in silence, as Carmy finally sat down with his mother and made peace with his traumatic past."[37]
Retrospective reviews
In 2025, Vulture ranked "Tonnato" as 14th-best out of 38 episodes of The Bear, commenting that "It's a little hard to watch but it's important, and Curtis shines as always as the manic and eccentric Berzatto family matriarch."[38]
See also
- Hooters – American restaurant chain, mentioned by Chester
- Aaron Rodgers – American football player, mentioned by Computer
- The Five Heartbeats – 1991 movie directed by Robert Townsend
- The Parent 'Hood – Family sitcom executive-produced by and starring Townsend
- All in the Family – Family sitcom starring Rob Reiner
- The Princess Bride – 1987 film directed by Reiner
- When Harry Met Sally... – 1989 film directed by Reiner
- List of The Bear episodes
- The Bear season four
- Previous episode: "Green"
- Next episode: "Goodbye"