1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest
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The 1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest resulted in the successful summit of Mount Everest via its South Face on 16 May. This was the second time this had been achieved – less than a year previously, the 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition being the first up the same route.[1] The expedition by the British Army and Royal Nepalese Army was under the command of Tony Streather, and the summiteers were Special Air Service soldiers Bronco Lane and Brummie Stokes.[2]
The British Army were closely involved in many mountain climbing initiatives from the early 1900s, which included a strong involvement in the reconnaissance expeditions to Everest during the 1920s. During the Second World War, the British Army fielded a Division of Mountain Trained troops – the 52nd Lowland Division. The Army then mounted a number of successful expeditions around the world – Lieutenant John Hunt's trip to climb K36 (Saltoro Kangri) in Baltistan inspired more expeditions. Hunt would subsequently become the successful leader of the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.
With the success of that expedition a mountaineering club was thus proposed and fronted by Colonel Gerry Finch, Major Hugh Robertson and Second Lieutenant Chris Bonington. On 24 May 1957 the Army Mountaineering Association was formed as a charitable status. Its constitution states that it exists 'To promote military efficiency by encouraging mountaineering in the Army'.[3][4] Another army officer, Tony Streather ascended the third highest mountain in the world Kangchenjunga in 1955, then Tirich Mir five years later. His legendary parts played on K2 and Haramosh gave him a superb reputation in mountaineering. More army officers led the way – Major Jon Fleming had led AMA expeditions to Tirich Mir in 1969, Lahul in 73 and Nuptse three years later.
Two SAS men Brummie Stokes and Bronco Lane took part in the 1975 expedition to the neighbouring peak of Nuptse, which is 25,850 feet high to Everest's 29,030 feet.[5] Four men had died on that particular trip, but Stokes and Lane were undeterred about climbing Everest itself.[6] The following year both were given leave from the SAS to attempt an Army ascent of Everest. The expedition was to be a joint British-Nepalese Army operation under the command of Streather.
