Jakob Schubert

Competition climbing

Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.^{[citation needed]}

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.^[2] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).^[3]

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.^[4]

In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.^[5]

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.^{[citation needed]}

Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo,^[6] where he won the bronze medal in the combined event.^[7]

Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport.^[8] He followed that up by winning the combined event, which qualified him to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.^[9]

He won a second consecutive bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.^[10]

Rock climbing

In 2023, Schubert became the only person in the world to have climbed the top grade in both bouldering and sport climbing.^[11]

Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Championships

Youth^[13]

Adult^[13]

Climbing European Championships

Lead

Lead

Bouldering

Combined

Redpointed routes

9c (5.15d):

• B.I.G. – Flatanger (Norway) – 20 September 2023 – First ascent and third-ever proposed at 9c.^[14]

9b+ (5.15c):

• Perfecto Mundo – Margalef (ESP) – 9 November 2019 – Third ascent (first by Alexander Megos).^[14]

9b (5.15b):

• The Flame - Austria (AUT) – 2023 – First ascent ^[15]
• Erebor – Arco (ITA) – 2022 – Repeat ascent of Stefano Ghisolfi's route.^[14]
• King Capella – Siurana (ESP) – 2021 – Third ascent of William Bosi's route.^[14]
• Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – 28 December 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.^[14]
• El Bon Combat – Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) – 1 December 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.^[14]
• Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – 5 January 2018 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013).^[14]
• La Planta da Shiva – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – 4 January 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra.^[14]
• Fight or flight – Oliana (ESP) – 31 December 2014 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011).^[14][16]

9a+ (5.15a)

• Qui – Tyrol (AUT) – 2 October 2023
• Clash of the Titans – Tyrol (AUT) – 3 October 2022
• La Furia de Jabali – Siurana (ESP) – 15 December 2021
• La Capella – Siurana (ESP) – 11 December 2021
• Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
• Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – 9 January 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
• Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – 8 January 2017
• Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – 2 January 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
• Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – 27 December 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
• Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – 29 May 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
• Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – 18 November 2015 – First ascent
• Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – 27 April 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)^[17]

9a (5.14d):

• Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal (AUT) – 8 November 2016 – First ascent
• Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – 15 October 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
• Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – 3 January 2013
• Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- 2 January 2013^[18]
• Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – 2 January 2013^[18]
• Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – 28 December 2012
• Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – 24 December 2012
• Martin Krpan – Misja Pec (SVN) – 21 November 2011^[19]
• Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – 30 May 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008^[20]
• Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – 30 March 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes

8c (5.14b):

• Valkyries – Flatanger (NOR) – September 2023
• Nordic Flower – Flatanger (NOR) – May 2016
• Aitzol – Margalef (ESP) – 23 April 2011^[21]

Boulder problems

9A (V17)

• Shaolin – Red Rock Canyon (USA) – February 2026 ^[22]
• Mount Doom – Maltatal (AUT) – 17 November 2025 ^[23]
• Alphane – Chironico (CHE) – 21 December 2023 ^[24]

8C+ (V16)

• Ephyra – Chironico (CHE) – February 2026
• Vecchio Leone SDS – Brione (CHE) – 12 January 2025
• The Story of Three Worlds – Cresciano (CHE) – 12 January 2025
• Return of the Dreamtime – Cresciano (CHE) – 28 December 2024

8C (V15)

• Emotional Landscapes – Maltatal (AUT) – 5 March 2026
• The Nest – Red Rock Canyon (USA) – January 2026
• The Lion's Share – Brione (CHE) – 12 January 2025
• Primitivo – Ticino (CHE) – 16 March 2021
• La Force Tranquille Direct – Magic Wood (CHE) – 14 November 2020 – First Ascent
• Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – 20 November 2018

8B+ (V14)

• Mithril Sit – Cresciano (CHE) – 11 January 2026
• The Innocent Man – Brione (CHE) – December 2025
• Big Paw – Chironico (CHE) – 27 December 2024
• Anam Cara – Silvapark (AUT) – 23 August 2021 – flashed
• Ill Thrill – Magic Wood (CHE) – 28 July 2020
• The Never Ending Story – Magic Wood (CHE) – June 2020 – flashed
• Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) 10 January 2020
• Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – 13 January 2019 – flashed ^[25]
• Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – 25 March 2018