List of grade milestones in rock climbing

Historic single pitch, multi-pitch and boulder climbs From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch or bouldering climbing-route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting — the ascent must thus be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional-climbing, free-solo-climbing, onsighted & flashed-ascents, are also listed.

Wolfgang Güllich set new "hardest-ever routes" multiple times

A climbing route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated it to establish a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+ (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air [de], which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+ (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Thus, the 2nd to 4th ranked candidates are also recorded.[1][2]

As of April 2026, the technically hardest-ever redpoint of a single-pitch rock-climbing route is at the grade of 9c (5.15d) for men and the grade of 9b+ (5.15c) for women. The technically hardest onsight is at the grade of 9a (5.14d) for men and 8c+ (5.14c) for women. The technically hardest boulder solved is at the boulder grade of V18 (9A+) for men and V16 (8C+) for women. The technically hardest redpoint of a multi-pitch (or big wall) route is at the grade of 9a+ (5.15a). The technically hardest free solo of a single-pitch route is at the grade of 8c (5.14b), and the technically hardest free solo of a multi-pitch (or big wall) route is at 7c+ (5.13a).

Single-pitch routes

Redpointed by men

9c (5.15d):[a]

Adam Ondra on Silence
  • SilenceFlatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route.[5][6] Is unrepeated (January 2026).[7]
  • DNAVerdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie, Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Is unrepeated (January 2026).[8][7]
  • B.I.G [de] (also Project Big) – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert who worked it with Adam Ondra and after consulting with him, proposed 9c saying it was "definitely harder" than Perfecto Mundo a "benchmark" 9b+ route. Is unrepeated (January 2026).[9][10]
  • Duality of Man – Dry Canyon, Arizona (USA) – March 6, 2025[11] – First ascent by Sean Bailey who worked on the project for several years, and is the first-ever proposed 9c in North America. It is unrepeated (January 2026).[12][13]

9b+ (5.15c):[b]

9b (5.15b):[c][d][e][f]

9a+ (5.15a):[g][h]

9a (5.14d):

Alex Megos on Action Directe

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):[i]

8b+ (5.14a):[j]

Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+ (5.14a)

8b (5.13d):[k]

8a+ (5.13c)[l]

Pre-sport era

The notable first ascents that set a new highest-grade prior to The Face were traditional climbing routes:

8a (5.13b)[m]

  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus 8a (5.13b) in history, by Tony Yaniro.[15][44]
  • Cosmic Debris – Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – May, 1980 – Early 8a led by Bill Price.[56]
  • Sphinx Crack – South Platte, CO (US) – April, 1981 – Early 8a led by Steve Hong.[57]
  • 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus 8a (5.13b), by Arnould t'Kint.[15][44]

7c+ (5.13a)

  • The PhoenixYosemite, CA (US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams).[58]
  • Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Edlinger.[44]
  • Le HaineLa Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Berhault.[44]
  • Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.[44]

7c (5.12d)

7b+ (5.12c)

7b (5.12b)

  • Kansas CityShawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – One of the first-ever 5.12b/c climbs in history, by John Bragg.[15][47][65]
  • Constable's Overhang – Wilton, (ENG) – 1973 – Possible early 7b (5.12b), as is graded "hard" E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill.[66]
  • Fish CrackYosemite (US) – 1975 May – One of the first-ever 7b (5.12b) climbs in history, by Henry Barber.[67]

7a+ (5.12a)

Thimble, the 1960s
  • ThimbleNeedles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+ (5.12a) in history, by John Gill. Free soloed.[15]
  • Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (US) – 1967 – First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe.[68][69]
  • English Hanging Gardens – Big Rock, Lake Perris CA (US) – 1970 – Likely the third-ever 7a+ lead by John Gosling.[70]
  • Orchrist – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill.[71]
  • The ThroneShawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – Very early 7a+ (5.12a) climb, led by John Stannard.[62]

7a (5.11d)

6c+ (5.11b/c)

6c (5.11a/b):

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

  • Suicide Wall, Route 1 – Idwal Slabs Ogwyn Valley (WAL) –1945 – One of the first-ever 6b+ (E2 5c, 5.10d) leads by Chris Preston.[76]
  • Rebitsch-Spiegl (Pitch Two) – Fleischbank Wilder Kaiser (AUT) – June 20, 1946 – Early 6b+ (UIAA VII) lead by Mathias Rebitsch.[77]

6b (5.10c):

  • Rostkante – Hauptwiesenstein Bielatel Saxon Switzerland, (DEU) –1922 – First consensus 6b lead (Saxon VIIIb, UIAA VII) by Hans Rost.[73][74]

6a+ (5.10b):

5b (5.8):

Redpointed by women

9b+ (5.15c)

9b (5.15b):[n]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a/9a+ :

9a (5.14d):[o][p]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

  • Come Back – Val San Nicolò (ITA) – 1986 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Luisa Iovane [fr].[15][83]
  • Rêve de PapillonBuoux (FRA) – 1987 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Christine Gambert [fr].[15][83]
  • Rêve de PapillonBuoux (FRA) – 1987 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Lynn Hill.[15][83]
  • Rêve de PapillonBuoux (FRA) – 1988 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Catherine Destivelle.[83]

7c+/8a (5.13a/b) :

Pre-sport era

The notable first female ascents that set a new highest-grade pre Fleur de Rocaille were traditional climbing routes:

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

7b (5.12b):

7a (5.11d):

Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra.[107]

9a (5.14d):

  • Southern Smoke Direct – Red River Gorge (USA) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra.[108][109]
  • Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos.[110]
  • Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[111]
  • Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[112]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Massey Fergusson – Calanques (FRA) – 1995 – First-ever 8b+ onsight, by Elie Chevieux [de].[15][116]
  • Maldita María – Cuenca (ESP) – 1996 – Second-ever 8b+ onsight, by Elie Chevieux [de].[15]

8b (5.13d):

  • Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by Elie Chevieux [de][15]
  • Public Enemy – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b.[114]

8a+ (5.13c):

(unknown)

8a (5.13b):

  • Samizdat – Cimai (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a on-sight, by Antoine Le Menestrel [fr].[15][117]

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Puro DreamingArco, Trentino (ITA) – October 24, 2025 – Second-ever female 8c+ flash/onsight, by Janja Garnbret; the original grade was 9a (5.14d) but was softened due to use of kneepads, which Garnbret did not use on her ascent, making it a possible first flash at 9a.[124][125]

8c (5.14b):[q]

8b+ (5.14a):[r][s]

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

Free-solo by men

8c (5.14b):

  • Panem et Circenses – Length: 15 metres (49 ft)Arco (IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52.[139]

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

  • Revelations – Length: 15 meters – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1985 – First-ever 8a free solo, by Antoine Le Menestrel [fr].[15]
  • Orange Mécanique – Length: 30 meters – Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Early 8a free solo by Patrick Edlinger.[143]

7c+ (5.13a):

  • Chimpanzodrome – Length: 15 meters – Le Saussois (FRA) –1984 – First-ever 7c+ free solo by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.[144]
  • Polpot – Length: 50 meters (2-pitches) – Barre de l'Escales Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1996 – Early 7c+ free solo by Alain Robert.[145]

7c (5.12d)

7b (5.12b)

7a+ (5.12a)

7a (5.11d):

  • Spider Line – Length: 16 meters – Joshua Tree, CA, (US) – February 1978 – First-ever free solo at 7a by John Yablonski.[149][150]

6c+ (5.11b/c):

  • Wall of Horrors – Length: 18 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1961 – First-ever free solo at E3 6a by Allan Austin.[151]
  • Slip N Slide – Length: 8 meters – Peak District, (ENG) – 1976 – First-ever free solo at E6 6a by Ron Fawcett.[152]

6c (5.11a/b):

  • Western Front – Length: 13 meters – Almscliff (ENG) – July 9, 1958 – One of the first-ever free solos at E3 5c, unrehearsed, by Allan Austin.[153]

Boulder problems

Solved by men

9A+ (V18):

  • Exodia – Rifugio de Barbara (ITA) – November 2025 – First ascent by Elias Iagnemma of a Christian Core project, who proposed the grade at 9A+ (V18), which would be the world's first-ever at this grade; remains unconfirmed.[154][155]

9A (V17):[t]

  • Soudain Seul – Coquibus Rumont (FRA) – February 8, 2021 – First ascent by Simon Lorenzi; disputed by Nicolas Pelorson (2021), who felt it was V16,[160] but generally upheld at V17 on future repeats including from Adam Ondra who felt it could be a "soft [V17]".[161]

8C+ (V16):[u]

Christian Core on Gioia [fr]
  • Gioia [fr]Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever 8C+ (V16), by Christian Core.[170] First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below).[171] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade.[172][173] In 2015, new chipped holds were discovered on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt lowers the grade.[170] In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Iagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad).[158][174]
  • Hypnotized MindsRocky Mountain (US) – October 2010 – Considered one of the first-ever consensus 8C+ (V16) boulders, by Daniel Woods who initially proposed V15;[177] first repeat by Rustam Asatowitsch Gelmanow [de] (2016), and a second repeat by Dave Graham (2019), confirmed it as V16.[178][163]

8C (V15):[v][w]

8B+ (V14):[x]

Dreamtime in Switzerland

8B (V13):

8A+ (V12):[y]

8A (V11):

7C+ (V10):

7C (V9):

  • Red Cross Overhang, or Gill ProblemTeton Range (US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C (V9), by John Gill.[15][188]
  • Double Clutch – Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US) – 1972 – Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams.[194]
  • Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains (US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by John Long.[15]
  • L'Abbé RésinaFontainebleau (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by Pierre Richard.[188]
Climber on Midnight Lightning

7B+ (V8):

7B (V8):

7A (V6):

  • Le JokerFontainebleau (FRA) – 1953 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a V6 (7A), by Robert Paragot [fr].[15]

6A (V3):

  • Marie-RoseFontainebleau (FRA) – 1946 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a V3 (6A/6A+), by Rene Ferlet [fr].[15]

Solved by women

8C+ (V16) :

8C/8C+ (V15/16) :

8C (V15):

8B+ (V14):

8B (V13):[z]

8A+ (V12):

8A (V11):

7C+/8A :

7C+ (V10):

7C (V9):

7B+ (V8):

Multi-pitch routes

Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the Salathé Wall and Dawn Wall), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.

Redpointed

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • Wu Wei (180-metres, 5-pitches) – Picco delle Aquile, Dolomites (ITA) – 16 August 2023 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 9a (5.14d), by Alessandro Zeni.[215][219]

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Lurgorri (250-metres, 6-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 13 August 2006 – First-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c+ (5.14c), by brothers Iker Pou [es] and Eneko Pou [es] .[215][220]
  • Nirwana (200-metres, 5-pitches) – Sonnwendwand, (AUT) – 9 September 2012 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c+ (5.14c), by Alexander Huber.[215][221][222]

8c (5.14b):

Climbers on the roof of Pan Aroma (and Bellavista) 8c (5.14b) on the Cima Ovest in the Dolomites.
  • Bellavista [it] (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by Alexander Huber;[215][223] repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+.[224][225]
  • WoGü [it] (250-metres, 7-pitches) – Rätikon (SUI) – 26 July 2008 – Third-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by a 15-year old Adam Ondra;[215] created by Beat Kammerlander [de] who never fully freed the line.[228]
  • Orbayu (510-metres, 13-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 2009 – Fourth-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by brothers Iker Pou [es] and Eneko Pou [es] .[215][229]

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Neverending Story (450-metres, 11-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1991 – First multi-pitch at 8b+ (5.14a), by Beat Kammerlander [de].[215][230]
  • The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second multi-pitch at 5.14a (8b+),[215] by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill led it all in under 24 hours;.[231]
  • After The Nose, the Alpine Trilogy [it] were the next 8b+ (5.14a) graded multi-pitch routes to be fully freed:[215]

8a+ (5.13c):

  • New Age (150-metres, 5-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1989 – First multi-pitch at 8a+ (5.13c), by Beat Kammerlander [de].[230]

8a (5.13b):

7c+ (5.13a):

  • Via Acacia (330-metres, 9-pitches) – 5th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at 7c+ (5.13a), by Martin Scheel [de].[230]

7b+ (5.12c):

  • Regular Northwest Face (690-meters, 24 pitches) – Half Dome, Yosemite (USA) – 1976 – First big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson.[236][237][234] 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a.
  • Pichenibule (400-meters, 11-pitches) – Barre de l' Escales Verdon (FRA) – 1980 – Early big wall FFA at 7b+ by Patrick Berhault.[238]
  • Hall of Mirrors (650-meters, 16 pitches) – Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA) – Sept 1980 – Early big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole.[239][57][234]
  • Amarcord (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1984 – Fourth big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c), by Martin Scheel [de].[230]

7b (5.12b)

7a+ (5.12a):

  • Macabre Wall (180-meters, 5-pitches) – Ogden UT (US) – July 1967 – First multi-pitch free climb at 7a+ flashed by Greg Lowe.[57][241]
  • Air Voyage (550-meters, 13-pitches) – Black Canyon National Park CO (US) – 1978 – First big wall free climb at 7a+ by Leonard Coyne and Ken Simms.[239]

7a (5.11d):

  • Mittelpfeiller (300-meters, 7-pitches) – HeiligkreuzkofelDolomites – (ITA) – July 6,7 1968 – First-ever multi-pitch/big wall free climb at 7a by Reinhold and Günther Messsner.[73][74][72][239]
  • Via Lacedelli (620-meters, 16-pitches) – Cima Scotoni Dolomites – (ITA) – 1979 – Second big wall FFA at 7a by Kurt Albert.[239]

6c+ (5.11b/c):

6c (5.11a/b):

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

  • Rebitsch-Spiegl (290-metres, 8-pitches) – Fleischbank Wilder Kaiser – (AUT) – June 20, 1946 – First big wall free climb at 5.10d (UIAA VII) by Mathias Rebitsch, Sepp Speigl.[77]
  • The Cruise (515-meters, 12-pitches) – Black Canyon NP CO – (US) – May 1976 – Second big wall FFA at 5.10d by Jimmie Dunn and Earl Wiggins.[57][242]
  • Via Comici Dimai (540-meters, 17-pitches) – Tre Cima Dolomites – (ITA) – July 17, 1978 – Early big wall FFA by Jean Claude Droyer.[243]

6b (5.10c):

  • Nordverschneidung (810-meters, 21-pitches) – Lalidererwand Karwendel – (AUT) – 1947 – First big wall free climb at 6b by Mathias Rebitsch and Franz Lorenz.[77]
  • East Buttress (330-meters, 12-pitches) – Middle Cathedral Rock Yosemite – (US) – 1964 – Big wall FFA at 5.10c by Frank Sacherer and Ed Leeper.[57]

6a+ (5.10b):

  • Via Vinatzer (830-metres, 29-pitches) – Marmolada Dolomites – (ITA) – Sept 2,3 1936 – First big wall free climb at 6a+ by Gian Battista Vinatzer and Ettore Castiglioni.[244]

6a (5.10a):

  • Via Micheluzzi (720-metres, 19-pitches) – Marmolada Dolomites – (ITA) – August 6,7 1929 – First ever big wall climb at UIAA grade VI+ by Luigi Micheluzzi, Roberto Perathoner, Demitrio Christomannos.[239][245]

5c (5.9):

  • Via Solleder (1,100-meters, 44-pitches) – Civetta Dolomites – (ITA) – August 7, 1925 – First ever big wall climb at consensus UIAA grade VI by Emil Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer.[239][245][246]

5a (5.7):

  • Piaz Route (600-meters, 19-pitches) – Totenkirchl Kaiser Mountains – (AUT) – Oct 13 1908 – First-ever big wall climb at UIAA V/V+ by Tita Piaz, F. Schroffeneggar, R. Scheitzold, J. Klammer.[247][246]

Free-soloed

7c+ (5.13a):

Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan

7b+ (5.12c):

The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route [de], Marmolada

7b (5.12b):

7a+ (5.12a):

7a (5.11d):

  • Pilier des Fourmis (120-meters, 4-pitches) – Buoux (FRA) – 1982 – Likely the first-ever multi-pitch free solo at 7a by Patrick Edlinger.[257]
  • L'Ange en Décomposition (100-meters, 3-pitches) – Barre de l'Escalès Verdon (FRA) – 1988 – Early multi-pitch free solo by Alain Robert.[258]

6c+ (5.11b/c):

6a+ (5.10b):

6a (5.10a):

  • Via Cassin (800-meters, 21-pitches) – Piz Badile (SUI) – July 1952 – First-ever Big Wall free solo at 6a, on sight in 4 hours 30 minutes, by Hermann Buhl.[239]

5c (5.9):

  • Via Solleder (1,100-meters, 44-pitches) – Civetta Dolomites (ITA) – 1952 – First-ever big wall free solo at 5c by Cesare Maestri.[244]

5b (5.8):

5a (5.7):

  • Via Piaz (280-meters, 7-pitches) – Punta Emma Rosengarten Dolomites (ITA) – 1900 – First ascent and first-ever multi-pitch free solo at V+ (5.7) by Tita Piaz.[246][244]
  • Piaz Route (600-meters, 19-pitches) – Totenkirchl Kaisergebirge (AUT) – July 22, 1911 – First-ever Big Wall free solo at UIAA V+ in 2 hrs 30 min by Paul Preuss.[246][244]

4c (5.6):

See also

Notes

  1. Excluded from 9c: Alex Megos's Bibliographie (2020) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade by Stefano Ghisolfi (that Megos agreed with), and Sean Bailey's (2020) further confirmation that it is at 9b+ (it ranks as the fifth-ever 9b+ in history).[3][4]
  2. Excluded from 9b+: Bernabè Fernandez [es]'s Chilam Balam [fr] (2003), was an unconfirmed and disputed first ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9b+ (5.15c) (the world's first-ever 9b+), which Adam Ondra regraded to a "low end" 5.15b (9b) in 2008, and which was further downgraded by later repeaters to a consensus of "hard 9a+ or 9a+/b".[14]
  3. Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada [fr]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga,[25][26][27] and further downgraded to 9a by Dani Moreno in 2023.[28]
  4. Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada [fr]'s Delincuente Natural (2008) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a by Jonathan Flor, who made the first repeat.[29]
  5. Excluded from 9b: Fred Rouhling's Akira (1995) is excluded post its 2020 downgrade to 9a by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez.[30]
  6. Not included in 9b: Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor (2003) is not included as Matty Hong's 2021 upgrade to 9b included the breaking of over a dozen handholds and twenty footholds, so much so that Hong could not opine on whether it was the same route Caldwell climbed, and Caldwell himself intervened to say that it was not as hard as Jumbo Love.[31][32] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the fourth ascent and downgraded it to 9a+ (5.15a)[33]
  7. Excluded from 9a+: Alexander Huber's Weiße Rose (1994) was graded 8c+ but Adam Ondra's 2008 repeat estimated it at 9a (and potentially 9a+, which would have made it the world first-ever 9a+), however, Jakob Schubert's 2020 repeat confirmed it 9a.[38]
  8. Excluded from 9a+: Bernabè Fernandez [es]'s Orujo (1998), was an unconfirmed and disputed ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9a+ (5.15a) (the world's first-ever 9a+ at the time), which has not been repeated due to concerns over manufacturing of holds.[39][40]
  9. Not included in 8c:Jerry Moffatt's Stone Love (1988), is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8c,[44] however, its consensus grade is considered at 8b+.[49]
  10. Not included in 8b+: Wolfgang Güllich's Dead Line (1986) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's third-ever 8b+,[44] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8b.[50]
  11. Not included in 8b: Martin Scheel [de]'s Vuelo a Ciegas Direct (trans: Blind Fight) which was Spain's first 8b and sometimes mistaken as being climbed in 1984,[15] whereas Scheel did the first ascent in 1986.[52]
  12. Not included in 8a+: Dave Cuthbertson's traditional climb Requiem (1983) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8a+,[44] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8a (or E8 6b in the English traditional grading system).[54]
  13. Not included in 8a: Peter Cleveland's Phlogiston (1977) at Devil's Lake is sometimes proposed as a first 8a (5.13b),[15] but it was clarified as a top rope.[55]
  14. Excluded from 9b: Laura Rogora's 2020 ascent of Dani Andrada [fr]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007),[80] is excluded post its 2021 downgrade from 9b to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga.[25][26]
  15. Excluded from 9a: Sasha Digiulian's 2012 ascent of Era Vella, which was at the time considered the fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a.[96] Era Vella has since been downgraded to 8c+/9a in the main climbing databases.[97]
  16. Not included in 9a: Alizée Dufraisse's 2012 ascent of La Reina Mora, which is sometimes considered as being 9a (thus the fourth-ever female 9a), but the climbing databases regard La Reina Mora as 8c+/9a.[98]
  17. Excluded from 8c:Kajsa Rosén [cs]'s onsight of T-1 Full Equip in March 2016 was considered a possible first female 8c onsght,[126] but the consensus grade was settled at 8b+ in 2021.[127][128]
  18. Not included in 8b+: Katie Brown's onsight of Omaha Beach in 1999 is sometimes mistakenly classed as an 8b+ onsight,[133] however, several holds had broken from the sandstone route since Brown's onsight, and the original route was not considered an 8b+ (5.14a)-graded route.[134][135]
  19. Not included in 8b+:Charlotte Durif [fr] lists a number of 8b+ onsights in her personal database: Spider cochon (2008), Ultime démence (2009), Basse température (2009) and Snails paradise (July 2010), that would rank as the earliest 8b+ female onsights,[133] however, they have not been verified in climbing media (unlike Les Rois du Pétrole in 2010).[136]
  20. Excluded from V17: Charles Albert's No Kpote Only (2019) was proposed at V17 but was downgraded by the first and second repeaters, Ryohei Kameyama (to V16 in 2020) and Nicolas Pelorson respectively (to V15 in 2020).[156] Shawn Raboutou's Megatron (November 2022), was the fifth ascent of a V17 boulder.[157]
  21. Excluded from 8C+: Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life (2004), once considered the first 8C+ but since downgraded to 8C (V15); it links several boulder problems over 68 moves and is now regarded as more a sport climbing route, with grade of 9a (5.14d).[169]
  22. Not included in V15: Markus Bock [de]'s Gossip (April 2002) was proposed by Bock at 8B+ (V14) but later revised upwards by Bock to 8C (V15),[181] however, a first repeat by John Gaskins disputed the grade and felt it was closer to 8B+ (V14); led to a very acrimonious public exchange with Bock.[182][183][184]
  23. Not included in V15: Klem Loskot's Emotional Landscapes SS (November 2002), was originally proposed by Loskot at 8B+ (V14), and Martin Moser's 2004 repeat was silent on the grade (he used different beta), however, Nalle Hukkataival's second repeat in 2014 (who also used different beta) suggested a possible 8C (V15), one of the world's first;[185] currently listed at 8B+/C (note the standing start is 8A+).[186]
  24. Excluded from V14: Werner Thom's Zerberus (1997), was downgraded to V13 (8B) on its repeat by Thomas Lindinger in 2017.[189]
  25. Excluded from V12: Jacky Godoffe [it]'s Partenaire Particulier (1987), which was considered at 8A+ (V12),[15] but has since been regraded to 8A (V11) in the main climbing databases.
  26. Not included in V13: Therese Johansen's ascent of Bernd Zangerl [fr]'s Propaganda (May 2011) would have ranked as the third-ever female ascent of a V13 (8B), but she downgraded the boulder herself to hard V12 or maybe V13 after climbing it.[209]

References

Related Articles

Wikiwand AI