Lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
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| Lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
|---|---|
| Location | |
| Dates | 23 June – 4 September 2021 |
| Champions | |
| Men | |
| Women | |
Competition lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held at five locations, from 23 June to 4 September 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six competition-lead climbing events concluding on 17 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of the event in Xiamen, China.[1]
The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Stefano Ghisolfi won the men's seasonal title, Janja Garnbret won the women's seasonal title, and Slovenia won the national team title.[2]
| Date | Location | Venue | Route-setters* | Men | Women |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| June, 23–26 | Kletterzentrum Innsbruck[3] | ||||
| July, 1–3 | Place du Rendez-Vous[4] | ||||
| July, 12–13 | Place du Mont Blanc[5] | ||||
| July, 17–18 | Parc des Sports[6] | ||||
| September, 3–4 | Dvorana Zlato polje[7] | ||||
| OVERALL WINNERS | |||||
| NATIONAL TEAM | |||||
* Chief route-setters are in bold.
Overall ranking
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.
Men
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[8]
| Rank | NAME | Points | Innsbruck | Villars | Chamonix | Briançon | Kranj |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 319 | 2. 80 | 11. 31 | 2. 80 | 1. 100 | 12. 28 | |
| 2 | 277 | ( — ) | 1. 100 | 1. 100 | 4. 55 | 15. 22 | |
| 3 | 263 | 4. 55 | 7. 43 | 9. 37 | 12. 28 | 1. 100 | |
| 4 | 212 | 7. 43 | 25. 6 | 7. 43 | 8. 40 | 2. 80 | |
| 5 | 204 | 3. 65 | 12. 28 | 4. 55 | 5. 51 | 26. 5 | |
| 6 | 192.87 | 12. 28 | 32. 0.87 | 3. 65 | 3. 65 | 10. 34 | |
| 7 | 169 | 5. 51 | 5. 51 | 14. 24 | 7. 43 | ( — ) | |
| 8 | 160.0 | 57. 0 | 4. 55 | 15. 22 | 17. 18 | 3. 65 | |
| 9 | 135 | 17. 18 | 15. 22 | 25. 6 | 10. 34 | 4. 55 | |
| 10 | 127 | 6. 47 | 2. 80 | ( — ) | ( — ) | ( — ) |
Women
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[9]
| Rank | NAME | Points | Innsbruck | Villars | Chamonix | Briançon | Kranj |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 300 | 1. 100 | 1. 100 | ( — ) | ( — ) | 1. 100 | |
| 2 | 296 | 25. 6 | 3. 65 | 2. 80 | 2. 80 | 3. 65 | |
| 3 | 278 | 7. 43 | 2. 80 | 1. 100 | ( — ) | 4. 55 | |
| 4 | 269 | 6. 47 | 5. 51 | 4. 55 | 3. 65 | 5. 51 | |
| 5 | 185 | 8. 40 | 7. 43 | 23. 8 | 6. 47 | 6. 47 | |
| 6 | 168 | 18. 16 | 6. 47 | 3. 65 | 8. 40 | ( — ) | |
| 7 | 162 | 12. 28 | ( — ) | 10. 34 | 1. 100 | ( — ) | |
| 8 | 146 | 13. 26 | 4. 55 | 11. 31 | 25. 6 | 12. 28 | |
| 9 | 128 | ( — ) | ( — ) | 5. 51 | 9. 37 | 8. 40 | |
| 9 | 128 | 16. 20 | 11. 31 | 43. 0 | 7. 43 | 10. 34 |
National Teams
The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2021:[10]
Country names as used by the IFSC
| Rank | Nation | Points | Innsbruck | Villars | Chamonix | Briançon | Kranj |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1244.0 | 2. 274.0 | 2. 229.0 | 5. 135.0 | 1. 230.0 | 1. 376.0 | |
| 2 | 1041.0 | 1. 279.0 | 3. 193.0 | 4. 158.0 | 5. 134.0 | 2. 277.0 | |
| 3 | 905.95 | 5. 110.55 | 1. 269.0 | 2. 237.0 | 2. 200.5 | 5. 88.9 | |
| 4 | 796.8 | 3. 149.75 | 6. 132.85 | 1. 244.5 | 4. 164.0 | 4. 105.7 | |
| 5 | 593.95 | 8. 80.75 | 5. 147.2 | 3. 192.0 | 7. 87.0 | 6. 87.0 | |
| 6 | 547.2 | 10. 57.2 | 4. 159.0 | 7. 91.35 | 6. 95.85 | 3. 143.8 | |
| 7 | 396.55 | 7. 96.0 | 19. 0.9 | 6. 99.85 | 3. 165.8 | 13. 34.0 | |
| 8 | 364.25 | 4. 117.65 | 7. 71.75 | 13. 35.5 | 9. 77.75 | 8. 61.6 | |
| 9 | 340.15 | 6. 96.3 | 9. 50.4 | 8. 86.8 | 10. 70.95 | 12. 35.7 | |
| 10 | 262.55 | 9. 57.75 | 11. 41.8 | 12. 40.0 | 8. 80.0 | 11. 43.0 |
Innsbruck, Austria (June, 23–26)
Men
99 men competed in the event.[11]
Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi set an early high-point in the final which could only be surpassed by Austria's Jakob Schubert who took first place in front of his home crowd. Switzerland's Sascha Lehmann took third place after pushing Japan's Masahiro Higuchi to fourth place on count-back. Czech Republic's superstar Adam Ondra slipped low down on the final route and placed 8th.[12]
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 38 | 1 | 38+ | 3 | 1.73 | 39+ | 47+ | ||
| 37 | 3 | 35 | 6 | 5.1 | 31+ | 47 | ||
| 34+ | 8 | 31+ | 14 | 11.62 | 39+ | 38+ | ||
| 4 | 37 | 3 | 11 | 89 | 18.97 | 34+ | 38+ | |
| 5 | 32 | 16 | 34+ | 8 | 12.33 | 41+ | 37+ | |
| 6 | 37 | 3 | 39+ | 2 | 2.83 | 38+ | 37+ | |
| 7 | 32+ | 13 | 23 | 34 | 21.82 | 39+ | 27+ | |
| 8 | 37+ | 2 | TOP | 1 | 1.41 | 42+ | 17 | |
Women
75 women competed in the event.[13]
Slovenia's Janja Garnbret claimed the only top on the final route, claiming the win. USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second while Japan's Akiyo Noguchi placed third.[12]
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 1.41 | 42+ | TOP | ||
| 39+ | 4 | TOP | 1 | 2.83 | 36.5+ | 40 | ||
| 31 | 11 | 35+ | 4 | 7.5 | 32+ | 33+ | ||
| 4 | 31+ | 7 | 33+ | 10 | 10.91 | 35 | 22+ | |
| 5 | 31 | 11 | 33+ | 10 | 13.23 | 32 | 22+ | |
| 6 | 41 | 3 | 34 | 7 | 4.9 | 35+ | 19+ | |
| 7 | 46+ | 2 | TOP | 1 | 2.0 | 42 | 13+ | |
| 8 | 33 | 5 | 34 | 7 | 6.32 | 36.5+ | 13+ | |
Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)
Men
68 men competed in the event.[14]
USA's Sean Bailey won the gold medal. Germany's Alexander Megos took second while USA's Colin Duffy took third.[15][16]
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| TOP | 1 | 32+ | 18 | 9.64 | 40 | 38 | ||
| 39+ | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.61 | 37+ | 35+ | ||
| 38+ | 16 | TOP | 1 | 7.04 | 36 | 31+ | ||
| 4 | 39+ | 8 | 32+ | 18 | 18.04 | 37+ | 26.5+ | |
| 5 | 39+ | 8 | 33 | 15 | 12.96 | 40+ | 26.5 | |
| 6 | 35 | 21 | TOP | 1 | 8.31 | 36 | 26 | |
| 7 | 39+ | 8 | 32+ | 18 | 18.04 | 37+ | 12 | |
| 8 | 35 | 21 | 34 | 8 | 14.78 | 36+ | 11+ | |
Women
53 women competed in the event.[17]
Slovenia's Janja Garnbret topped all the routes in the competition, taking the win. Italy's Laura Rogora also topped the final route, but took silver due to count-back. USA's Natalia Grossman took bronze.[15][16]
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 1.41 | TOP | TOP | ||
| 20+ | 17 | TOP | 1 | 7.35 | 45+ | TOP | ||
| 35+ | 5 | 40+ | 4 | 5.24 | 34+ | 42+ | ||
| 4 | 36+ | 3 | TOP | 1 | 2.65 | 35+ | 40+ | |
| 5 | 20+ | 17 | 40+ | 4 | 12.19 | 35+ | 40+ | |
| 6 | 32+ | 6 | 35+ | 11 | 8.46 | 36+ | 33+ | |
| 7 | 37 | 2 | 40+ | 4 | 3.32 | 40+ | 17+ | |
| 8 | 36+ | 3 | 35 | 12 | 6.48 | 35 | 17+ | |
Chamonix, France (July, 12–13)
Men
73 men competed in the event.[18]
USA's Sean Bailey claimed his second win in the Lead World Cup. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník fell at the same crux in the final round and placed second and third respectively on count-back.[19][20]
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 37+ | 5 | 40 | 10 | 8.31 | 43 | 34+ | ||
| 32+ | 26 | TOP | 1 | 11.62 | 46 | 32 | ||
| 35+ | 10 | 39 | 17 | 14.9 | 43 | 32 | ||
| 4 | 37 | 8 | TOP | 1 | 6.0 | 47+ | 29 | |
| 5 | TOP | 1 | 38 | 21 | 5.61 | 41+ | 28+ | |
| 6 | 35+ | 10 | 40+ | 9 | 10.39 | 41+ | 26+ | |
| 7 | 33+ | 19 | 40 | 10 | 15.91 | 45 | 25+ | |
| 8 | 32+ | 26 | TOP | 1 | 11.62 | 45+ | 25 | |
Women
62 women competed in the event.[21]
Italy's Laura Rogora topped three out of four routes in the competition, earning her a gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Bulgaria's Aleksandra Totkova placed third.[19][20]
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 44+ | 21 | TOP | 1 | 9.81 | TOP | TOP | ||
| 50 | 2 | TOP | 1 | 3.24 | TOP | 41+ | ||
| 50 | 2 | 48 | 7 | 4.58 | TOP | 38+ | ||
| 4 | 49+ | 5 | 41+ | 12 | 8.49 | TOP | 38+ | |
| 5 | 44+ | 21 | 47 | 8 | 14.83 | TOP | 32+ | |
| 6 | 49 | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.77 | TOP | 29+ | |
| 7 | 47 | 18 | 40+ | 14 | 15.87 | TOP | 29+ | |
| 8 | 49 | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.77 | TOP | 28+ | |