Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Men's combined
Men's combined events at the Olympics
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The men's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It was held from August 3 to August 5, 2021, at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.[1] A total of 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.
5 August 2021 (final)
| Men's combined at the Games of the XXXII Olympiad | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Olympic sport climbing | |||||||||||||
| Venue | Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo | ||||||||||||
| Dates | 3 August 2021 (qualification) 5 August 2021 (final) | ||||||||||||
| Competitors | 20 from 15 nations | ||||||||||||
| Winning Score | 28 | ||||||||||||
| Medalists | |||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
During the qualifying round, Bassa Mawem of France suffered an injury to his lower bicep tendon in his left arm and was forced to withdraw from the final.[2]
Qualification
Competition format
In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals.[3]
In speed climbing, climbers raced against each other's in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Final rounds. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest to the top winning.
In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.
In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.
Route-setting
Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.
The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States.[4][5]
The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.[6]
Records
Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.
| Speed records | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| World record |  Veddriq Leonardo (INA) | 5.208 | Salt Lake City, United States | 28 May 2021 |
| Olympic record | Not established | – | – | – |
The following records were established during the competition:
| Date | Round | Climber | Nation | Time | Record |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| August 3 | Speed Qualification | Bassa Mawem |  France |
5.45[7] | OR |
Schedule
All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)
| Date[8] | Time | Round |
|---|---|---|
| Tuesday, 3 August 2021 | 17:00 | Speed Qualification |
| 18:00 | Bouldering Qualification | |
| 21:10 | Lead Qualification | |
| Thursday, 5 August 2021 | 17:30 | Speed Final |
| 18:30 | Bouldering Final | |
| 21:10 | Lead Final |
Results
Qualification
The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the Finals.
| Rank | Climber | Nation | Speed[9] | Bouldering[10] | Lead[11] | Total [12] | Notes | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | B | CP | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | Results | CP | HR | TFT | CP | |||||
| 1 | Mickaël Mawem | France | 5.95 | 3 | T2z2 | T1z1 | T1z1 | z1 | 3T4z 4 5 | 1 | 28+ | 2:24 | 11 | 33.00 | Q | |
| 2 | Tomoa Narasaki |  Japan | 5.94 | 2 | T2z1 | T4z4 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 6 7 | 2 | 26+ | 2:11 | 14 | 56.00 | Q | |
| 3 | Colin Duffy |  United States | 6.23 | 6 | T10z6 | – | T7z6 | – | 2T2z 17 12 | 5 | 42+ | 4:44 | 2 | 60.00 | Q | |
| 4 | Jakob Schubert |  Austria | 6.70 | 12 | z9 | – | z3 | T2z1 | 1T3z 2 13 | 7 | 42+ | 4:02 | 1 | 84.00 | Q | |
| 5 | Adam Ondra |  Czech Republic | 7.46 | 18 | T4z4 | – | z4 | T3z3 | 2T3z 7 11 | 3 | 39+ | 4 | 216.00 | Q | ||
| 6 | Alberto Ginés López |  Spain | 6.32 | 7 | – | – | T12z4 | – | 1T1z 12 4 | 14 | 41+ | 3 | 294.00 | Q | ||
| 7 | Bassa Mawem | France | 5.45 OR | 1 | z4 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 4 | 18 | 7 | 20 | 360.00 | Q | ||
| 8 | Nathaniel Coleman | United States | 6.51 | 10 | z1 | – | T4z3 | z2 | 1T3z 4 6 | 11 | 39 | 5 | 550.00 | Q | ||
| 9 | Alexander Megos |  Germany | 7.47 | 19 | T2z1 | z6 | z7 | z1 | 1T4z 2 15 | 6 | 36+ | 6 | 684.00 | |||
| 10 | Chon Jong-won |  South Korea | 6.21 | 5 | z4 | – | T3z3 | z3 | 1T3z 3 10 | 10 | 26+ | 2:34 | 16 | 800.00 | ||
| 11 | Rishat Khaibullin |  Kazakhstan | 6.19 | 4 | – | – | z3 | – | 0T1z 0 3 | 17 | 28+ | 3:09 | 13 | 884.00 | ||
| 12 | Jan Hojer | Germany | 6.63 | 11 | z2 | – | T3z3 | z3 | 1T3z 3 8 | 9 | 29+ | 9 | 891.00 | |||
| 13 | Aleksey Rubtsov |  ROC | 7.23 | 16 | T6z3 | – | – | T1z1 | 2T2z 7 4 | 4 | 26+ | 2:29 | 15 | 960.00 | ||
| 14 | Pan Yufei |  China | 7.59 | 20 | T2z2 | – | z12 | z1 | 1T3z 2 15 | 8 | 36 | 7 | 1120.00 | |||
| 15 | Michael Piccolruaz |  Italy | 6.33 | 8 | T5z5 | – | z2 | – | 1T2z 5 7 | 13 | 28+ | 2:33 | 12 | 1248.00 | ||
| 16 | Christopher Cosser |  South Africa | 6.48 | 9 | z7 | – | z8 | – | 0T2z 0 15 | 16 | 29 | 10 | 1440.00 | |||
| 17 | Sean McColl |  Canada | 6.93 | 14 | z2 | – | z1 | – | 0T2z 0 3 | 15 | 35+ | 8 | 1680.00 | |||
| 18 | Kai Harada | Japan | 7.08 | 15 | T4z1 | – | z7 | – | 1T2z 4 8 | 12 | 25+ | 17 | 3060.00 | |||
| 19 | Ludovico Fossali | Italy | 6.71 | 13 | – | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 19.5 | 25 | 2:48 | 18 | 4563.00 | ||
| 20 | Tom O'Halloran |  Australia | 7.34 | 17 | – | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 19.5 | 25 | 3:58 | 19 | 6298.50 | ||
Final
| Rank | Climber | Nation | Speed[13][14] | Bouldering[15] | Lead[16] | Total [17] | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quarterfinals | Semifinals | Finals | CP | 1 | 2 | 3 | Results | CP | HR | CP | |||||||
| R | T | R | T | R | T | ||||||||||||
 | Alberto Ginés López | Spain | 2 | 7.44 | 7 | 6.56 | 12 | 6.42 | 1 | z1 | z7 | z1 | 0T3z 0 9 | 7 | 38+ | 4 | 28 |
 | Nathaniel Coleman | United States | 4 | 6.45 | 6 | 6.21 | 10 | Fall | 6 | T1z1 | T3z2 | z1 | 2T3z 4 4 | 1 | 34+ | 5 | 30 |
 | Jakob Schubert | Austria | 3 | 9.18 | 6 | 6.76 | 9 | W | 7 | T1z1 | z5 | z1 | 1T3z 1 7 | 5 | Top | 1 | 35 |
| 4 | Tomoa Narasaki | Japan | 3 | 6.11 | 8 | 6.02 | 12 | 7.82 | 2 | T1z1 | z3 | z1 | 1T3z 1 5 | 3 | 33+ | 6 | 36 |
| 5 | Mickaël Mawem | France | 4 | 6.36 | 8 | 7.05 | 11 | 6.47 | 3 | T1z1 | z1 | z1 | 1T3z 1 3 | 2 | 23+ | 7 | 42 |
| 6 | Adam Ondra | Czech Republic | 1 | W | 7 | 7.03 | 11 | 6.86 | 4 | T2z1 | – | z1 | 1T2z 2 2 | 6 | 42+ | 2 | 48 |
| 7 | Colin Duffy | United States | 2 | FS | 5 | W | 10 | 6.35 | 5 | T1z1 | z3 | z1 | 1T3z 1 5 | 4 | 40 | 3 | 60 |
| 8 | Bassa Mawem* | France | 1 | DNS | 5 | DNS | 9 | DNS | 8 | – | – | – | DNS | 8 | DNS | 8 | 512 |
* Injured and could not compete.[2]