Bouldering at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
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Moscow, Russia
Chongqing, China
Wujiang, China
Munich, Germany
| Bouldering at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
|---|---|
| Location |
|
| Dates | 5 April – 8 June 2019 |
| Champions | |
| Men | |
| Women | |
The 2019 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 21st season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 5 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on June 8 with the World Cup in Vail. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Janja Garnbret won the women's seasonal title, winning all six competitions of the season in the process, an achievement which had never been accomplished before. The men's seasonal title went to Tomoa Narasaki while Japan defended its title in the national teams competition.
For the Tokyo 2020 Olympics athletes can qualify through either the IFSC Combined World Championships, the Olympic Qualifying Event or the Continental Championships. The Olympic Qualifying Event is an invitation only event open to the 20 highest ranked climbers on the World Cup circuit who haven't already qualified.[1]
Overall ranking
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.
Men
The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[2]
| Rank | Name | Points | Meiringen | Moscow | Chongqing | Wujiang | Munich | Vail |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 340 | 2. 80 | ( — ) | 2. 80 | 1. 100 | ( — ) | 2. 80 | |
| 2 | 335 | 1. 100 | 2. 80 | ( — ) | 14. 24 | 2. 80 | 5. 51 | |
| 3 | 264 | 8. 40 | 3. 65 | (29. 1) | 9. 37 | 15. 22 | 1. 100 | |
| 4 | 228 | 5. 51 | 10. 34 | (15. 22) | 11. 31 | 6. 47 | 3. 65 | |
| 5 | 227 | 4. 55 | 9. 37 | 6. 47 | 5. 51 | ( — ) | 9. 37 | |
| 6 | 223 | (21. 9 *) | 12. 28 | 12. 28 | 6. 47 | 3. 65 | 4. 55 | |
| 7 | 214 | 7. 43 | 11. 31 | 5. 51 | 10. 34 | 4. 55 | ( — ) | |
| 8 | 205 | 15. 22 | 4. 55 | 3. 65 | 20. 12 | 5. 51 | ( — ) | |
| 9 | 191 | 11. 31 | 1. 100 | (34. 0) | 16. 20 | 11. 31 | 21. 9 | |
| 10 | 184 | 47. 0 | 27. 3 | 18. 16 | 3. 65 | 1. 100 | ( — ) | |
| 11 | 174 | 3. 65 | 16. 20 | 7. 43 | 7. 43 | ( — ) | 27. 3 | |
| 12 | 148 | 21. 9 | ( — ) | 11. 31 | 2. 80 | ( — ) | 12. 28 | |
| 13 | 143 | ( — ) | 7. 43 | 1. 100 | ( — ) | ( — ) | ( — ) | |
| 14 | 136 | 9. 37 | 17. 18 | 13. 26 | ( 23. 7 ) | 20. 12 | 7. 43 | |
| 15 | 121 | 20. 12 | 23. 7 | 8. 40 | 15. 22 | 8. 40 | ( — ) | |
| 16 | 117 | 6. 47 | 19. 14 | 21. 9 * | ( — ) | 18. 16 | 11. 31 | |
| 17 | 112 | 13. 26 | 21. 9 | 21. 9 * | 8. 40 | 12. 28 | ( — ) | |
| 18 | 109 | 10. 34 | ( — ) | ( — ) | 4. 55 | ( — ) | 16. 20 | |
| 18 | 109 | 16. 20 | 15. 22 | 23. 7 | ( — ) | 10. 34 | 13. 26 | |
| 20 | 104 | 17. 18 | ( — ) | 17. 18 | 12. 28 | ( — ) | 8. 40 |
Women
The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[3]
| Rank | Name | Points | Meiringen | Moscow | Chongqing | Wujiang | Munich | Vail |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 500 | 1. 100 | 1. 100 | 1. 100 | 1. 100 | 1. 100 | (1. 100) | |
| 2 | 320 | 2. 80 | ( — ) | 2. 80 | 2. 80 | ( — ) | 2. 80 | |
| 3 | 308 | 4. 55 | 3. 65 | 7. 43 | (13. 25) * | 2. 80 | 3. 65 | |
| 4 | 206 | 9. 37 | 6. 47 | 5. 51 | 7. 43 | ( — ) | 12. 28 | |
| 5 | 203 | 21. 9 * | 5. 51 | 3. 65 | 5. 51 | 12. 27 * | ( — ) | |
| 6 | 180 | 5. 51 | 8. 40 | 4. 55 | 10. 34 | ( — ) | ( — ) | |
| 7 | 163 | 16. 20 | 4. 55 | 12. 28 | 15. 22 | 8. 38 * | ( — ) | |
| 8 | 161 | 12. 28 | 19. 14 | 6. 47 | 13. 25 * | 6. 47 | ( — ) | |
| 9 | 157 | 17. 17 * | ( 31. 0 ) | 14. 24 | 6. 47 | 4. 55 | 19. 14 | |
| 10 | 145 | 3. 65 | 2. 80 | ( — ) | ( — ) | ( — ) | ( — ) | |
| 10 | 145 | 13. 26 | 10. 32 * | 25. 5 * | 11. 31 | 5. 51 | ( — ) | |
| 12 | 139 | 15. 22 | 9. 37 | 8. 40 | 17. 18 | ( — ) | 15. 22 | |
| 13 | 125 | 7. 43 | 25. 5 | 17. 17 * | (29. 1) | 10. 34 | 13. 26 | |
| 14 | 111 | 10. 34 | 14. 23 | ( — ) | 25. 5 | 17. 15 * | 10. 34 | |
| 15 | 110 | ( — ) | ( — ) | ( — ) | 4. 55 | ( — ) | 4. 55 | |
| 16 | 102 | ( — ) | 23. 7 | 16. 20 | 12. 28 | ( — ) | 6. 47 | |
| 17 | 100 | 17. 17 * | 7. 43 | ( — ) | 8. 40 | ( — ) | ( — ) | |
| 18 | 93 | 8. 40 | 16. 20 | ( — ) | ( — ) | 21. 9 | 14. 24 | |
| 19 | 80 | 27. 3 | 13. 26 | 11. 31 | 16. 20 | ( — ) | ( — ) | |
| 20 | 77 | 27. 3 | ( — ) | 21. 9 | 3. 65 | ( — ) | ( — ) |
* = Joint place with another athlete
National Teams
The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[4]
Country names as used by the IFSC
| Rank | Name | Points | Meiringen | Moscow | Chongqing | Wujiang | Munich | Vail |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1693 | 322 | 210 | 321 | 435 | (86) | 405 | |
| 2 | 1359 | 213 | 331 | 280 | 201 | 334 | (109) | |
| 3 | 766 | (75) | 151 | 205 | 104 | 149 | 157 | |
| 4 | 591 | 75 | 99 | 84 | 137 | 196 | (15) | |
| 5 | 534 | 63 | 80 | 74 | (61) | 131 | 186 | |
| 6 | 468 | 102 | 49 | 89 | (38) | 48 | 180 | |
| 7 | 396 | 43 | 136 | 55 | 79 | 83 | (—) | |
| 8 | 353 | 68 | 77 | (34) | 78 | 47 | 83 | |
| 9 | 336 | 100 | 81 | (0) | 24 | 80 | 51 | |
| 10 | 330 | 101 | 119 | 34 | 9 | 67 | (6) |
Meiringen, Switzerland (5–6 April)
Women
100 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Last year's winner and overall Bouldering World Cup winner Miho Nonaka had to sit out due to injury. Janja Garnbret (3T4z 6 6) won in front of Akiyo Noguchi (3T4z 9 12) as the only two athletes to top the final boulder. The 2016 and 2017 winner Shauna Coxsey came in third, after recovering from last years injuries.[5][6][7]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 3T4z 6 6 | |
| 2 | 3T4z 9 12 | |
| 3 | 2T3z 3 4 | |
| 4 | 1T2z 4 2 | |
| 5 | 1T1z 1 1 | |
| 6 | 1T1z 2 2 | |
Men
115 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Last year's winner and overall Bouldering World Cup winner Jernej Kruder did not advance past the semi-final. Adam Ondra (4T4z 10 9) attended his first Bouldering World Cup since 2015 and won the competition, being the only athlete to top all routes in the final (and the previous rounds). The final route featured a handjam move which shut down most competitors. Jongwon Chon managed to dyno past it to the zone, but only Ondra, with recent trad experience, was able to use the hold as designed. The Japanese team finished with seven athletes in the Top 10 including Tomoa Narasaki (3T4z 3 4) and Rei Sugimoto (2T3z 6 7), who rounded out the podium.[5][8][9]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 4T4z 10 9 | |
| 2 | 3T3z 7 6 | |
| 3 | 2T3z 6 7 | |
| 4 | 1T3z 3 5 | |
| 5 | 1T3z 3 8 | |
| 6 | 1T1z 1 1 | |
Moscow, Russia (13–14 April)
Women
92 athletes attended the World Cup in Moscow. Most of the Japanese team including Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka chose to not attend the World Cup. The semi-final round consisted of a tough set of boulders that saw very few tops. In contrast the final round problems were criticised for being a bit too easy, with every athlete topping at least three of the four boulders.[10] Janja Garnbret (4T4z 4 4) won the competition, flashing each of the final boulders. Shauna Coxsey (4T4z 6 6) came in second by virtue of having had a better semi-final than Fanny Gibert (4T4z 6 6) who had an identical score in the final.[11][12]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 4T4z 4 4 | |
| 2 | 4T4z 6 6 | |
| 3 | 4T4z 6 6 | |
| 4 | 3T4z 3 5 | |
| 5 | 3T4z 9 10 | |
| 6 | 3T3z 6 6 | |
Men
110 athletes attended the World Cup in Moscow. Meiringen winner Adam Ondra just barely made it through the qualifying but dominated the semi-final, topping all four boulders whereas no other athlete topped more than two. In the final Adam Ondra (3T4z 5 7), Jernej Kruder (4T4z 8 6) and Yoshiyuki Ogata (3T3z 6 5) topped the first three boulders. Kruder was the only athlete to make it to the top of the final boulder, though, thus winning the competition.[13][12]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 4T4z 8 6 | |
| 2 | 3T4z 5 7 | |
| 3 | 3T3z 6 5 | |
| 4 | 2T3z 6 6 | |
| 5 | 1T3z 2 6 | |
| 6 | 1T3z 2 8 | |
Chongqing, China (27–28 April)
Women
85 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Shauna Coxsey, who had won medals at both previous World Cups this season, chose to not attend the World Cup. Janja Garnbret (4T4z 8 6) won her third straight World Cup. Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 12 9) won Silver and Jessica Pilz (3T4z 8 11) took the Bronze medal.[14]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 4T4z 8 6 | |
| 2 | 4T4z 12 9 | |
| 3 | 3T4z 8 11 | |
| 4 | 1T3z 2 8 | |
| 5 | 1T2z 1 4 | |
| 6 | 0T4z 0 10 | |
Men
101 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Meiringen winner Adam Ondra did not to attend due to respiratory infection[15] and Moscow winner Jernej Kruder failed to advance past the qualifying round. In the final Manuel Cornu (3T4z 5 5) managed to win his first World Cup. Tomoa Narasaki (3T4z 5 6) came in second and Anže Peharc (3T4z 10 10) finished in third place.[16]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 3T4z 5 5 | |
| 2 | 3T4z 5 6 | |
| 3 | 3T4z 10 10 | |
| 4 | 2T4z 3 10 | |
| 5 | 2T4z 4 11 | |
| 6 | 2T4z 7 9 | |
Wujiang, China (4–5 May)
Women
83 athletes attended the World Cup in Wujiang. 2018 overall Bouldering World Cup winner Miho Nonaka attended her first World Cup of the season, returning from a shoulder injury.[15] Nonaka (2T4z 4 7) finished in fourth place. Janja Garnbret (4T4z 5 4) won her fourth straight World Cup while Akiyo Noguchi (3T4z 4 5) won Silver and 15-year old Ai Mori (3T4z 11 9) took the Bronze medal in her first World Cup final appearance.[17]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 4T4z 8 6 | |
| 2 | 4T4z 12 9 | |
| 3 | 3T4z 11 9 | |
| 4 | 2T4z 4 7 | |
| 5 | 2T4z 6 7 | |
| 6 | 0T2z 0 2 | |
Men
97 athletes attended the World Cup in Wujiang. None of the previous World Cup winners of the season managed to advance to the final round. Chongqing runner-up Tomoa Narasaki (3T4z 7 8) won the competition in front of Kai Harada (3T4z 7 13). Jakob Schubert (1T4z 2 9) and Keita Dohi (1T4z 2 9) had identical final scores. Schubert was awarded the bronze medal by virtue of his better semi-final performance.[18]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 3T4z 7 8 | |
| 2 | 3T4z 7 13 | |
| 3 | 1T4z 2 9 | |
| 4 | 1T4z 2 9 | |
| 5 | 1T4z 3 18 | |
| 6 | 1T3z 9 11 | |