Lead climbing at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup

More information Date, Location ...

Date	Location	Routesetters*	Men	Women
June, 14-18	Innsbruck, Austria	Yann Genoux Florian Murnig Alberto Gnerro	Sascha Lehmann	Janja Garnbret
June 30 - July 2	Villars, Switzerland	Romain Cabessut Yann Genoux Julien Gras	Jakob Schubert	Janja Garnbret
July, 7-9	Chamonix, France	Hiroshi Okano Brad Weaver Pedro Coral Olga Niemiec	Toby Roberts	Jain Kim
July, 14-15	Briançon, France	Christian Bindhammer Marcin Wszolek Alberto Gnerro	Sorato Anraku	Vita Lukan [sl]
September, 8-9	Koper, Slovenia	Adam Pustelnik Jan Zbranek Martin Hammerer	Sorato Anraku	Janja Garnbret
September, 22-24	Wujiang, China	Adam Pustelnik Ma Zida Akito Matsushima	Sorato Anraku	Ai Mori
OVERALL WINNERS			Sorato Anraku	Jessica Pilz
NATIONAL TEAM			Japan

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* Chief routesetters are in bold.

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:^[2]

More information Rank, Name ...

Rank	Name	Points	Innsbruck	Villars	Chamonix	Briançon	Koper	Wujiang
1	Sorato Anraku	4300	4. 610	(6. 495)	3. 690	1. 1000	1. 1000	1. 1000
2	Alexander Megos	2650	2. 805	3. 690	4. 610	-	5. 545	-
3	Taisei Homma	2455	9. 380	13. 280	12. 300	2. 805	(13. 270*)	3. 690
4	Shion Omata	2445	12. 300	8. 415	9. 380	5. 545	(15. 240)	2. 805
5	Toby Roberts	2440	16. 220	4. 610	1. 1000	-	4. 610	-
6	Satone Yoshida	2080	6. 495	12. 300	11. 325	3. 690	13. 270*	(14. 260)
7	Yoshiyuki Ogata	2065	(18. 185)	17. 205	14. 260	4. 610	9. 380	4. 610
8	Sascha Lehmann	1940	1. 1000	18. 185	-	-	12. 300	7. 455
9	Masahiro Higuchi	1720	7. 455	21. 145	(26. 84)	6. 495	11. 325	12. 300
10	Jakob Schubert	1690	3. 690	1. 1000	-	-	-	-

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Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:^[2]

More information Rank, Name ...

Rank	Name	Points	Innsbruck	Villars	Chamonix	Briançon	Koper	Wujiang
1	Jessica Pilz	3235	3. 690	2. 805	4. 610	-	11. 325	2. 805
2	Janja Garnbret	3000	1. 1000	1. 1000	-	-	1. 1000	-
3	Vita Lukan [sl]	2725	(17. 205)	13. 280	7. 455	1. 1000	3. 690	12. 300
4	Ai Mori	2610	2. 805	-	-	-	2. 805	1. 1000
5	Natsuki Tanii	2525	(26. 84)	6. 495	9. 380	8. 415	5. 545	3. 690
6	Jain Kim	2485	11. 325	7. 455	1. 1000	14. 250	(20. 155)	7. 455
7	Seo Chae-hyun	2430	5. 545	4. 610	8. 415	14. 250	4. 610	-
8	Mia Krampl	2275	6. 495	5. 545	6. 495	-	8. 415	11. 325
9	Nonoha Kume	2090	-	16. 220	2. 805	4. 610	7. 455	-
10	Molly Thompson-Smith	1885	9. 380	9. 380	12. 300	5. 545	13. 280	-

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110 men and 89 women attended the event.^[3]

In the men's, Sascha Lehmann won the competition ahead of Alexander Megos. In the final, Lehmann and Megos received identical scores. Lehmann was awarded the gold by virtue of his better semi-final performance. Jakob Schubert won the bronze medal.^[4]

In women's, Slovenian Janja Garnbret won the competition — marking her third Lead World Cup win in Innsbruck. Japan's Ai Mori finished second. Austria's Jessica Pilz placed third.^[5]

More information Men, Women ...

Men						Women
Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final	Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final
		R1	R2					R1	R2
	Sascha Lehmann	41	TOP	43+	44+		Janja Garnbret	TOP	47+	46	39+
	Alexander Megos	41	TOP	39+	44+		Ai Mori	49+	43+	46+	33+
	Jakob Schubert	39+	TOP	43	42+		Jessica Pilz	49+	40+	40+	25+
4	Sorato Anraku	41+	TOP	40	42+	4	Brooke Raboutou	43+	43	34+	25+
5	Mejdi Schalck	39	39	40	42+	5	Seo Chae-hyun	49+	45	46+	25
6	Satone Yoshida	41+	41+	39+	42+	6	Mia Krampl	45+	39+	36+	25
7	Masahiro Higuchi	39+	38+	42+	42	7	Natalia Grossman	46+	43+	34+	24+
8	Alberto Ginés López	21	40+	40	42	8	Hélène Janicot	37+	43+	32+	7+
9	Taisei Homma	41	40+	42	40+

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94 men and 83 women attended the event.^[6]

In men's, Innsbruck winner Sascha Lehmann failed to advance past the semi-finals. Last year's winner Taisei Homma failed to advance past the semi-finals. Austrian Jakob Schubert won the competition — his first lead World Cup win since Innsbruck 2021. Czech Republic's Adam Ondra and Germany's Alexander Megos claimed silver and bronze respectively.^[7]

In women's, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret took the win, topping all routes in the qualification, semi-final and final rounds. This marked Garnbret's seventh consecutive Villars Lead World Cup win. Austria's Jessica Pilz and USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second and third respectively.^[8]

More information Men, Women ...

Men						Women
Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final	Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final
		R1	R2					R1	R2
	Jakob Schubert	40+	TOP	36+	42+		Janja Garnbret	TOP	TOP	TOP	TOP
	Adam Ondra	41	33	39+	41+		Jessica Pilz	41+	TOP	35+	43+
	Alexander Megos	40+	26+	36+	40		Brooke Raboutou	TOP	37+	45+	43
4	Toby Roberts	40+	35	36+	39+	4	Seo Chae-hyun	39+	TOP	45+	43
5	Colin Duffy	38	29+	TOP	37+	5	Mia Krampl	36+	34+	37	40+
6	Sorato Anraku	37	34	TOP	36+	6	Natsuki Tanii	41+	20+	40+	36
7	Pan Yufei	38+	30+	32+	34	7	Jain Kim	39+	34+	36	22+
8	Shion Omata	37	34+	33+	24+	8	Mattea Pötzi	34+	30+	37+	17+

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92 men and 83 women attended the event.^[9]

In men's, Great Britain's Toby Roberts secured the only top in the final climbed second in the final — claiming his first Lead World Cup win. France's Sam Avezou and Japan's Sorato Anraku won their first IFSC World Cup medals —silver and bronze respectively.^[10][11]

In women's, South Korean veteran Jain Kim claimed gold. Japan's Nonoha Kume claimed her first World Cup silver medal at her second World Cup ahead of France's Hélène Janicot due to countback to semi-finals. ^[12]

More information Men, Women ...

Men						Women
Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final	Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final
		R1	R2					R1	R2
	Toby Roberts	TOP	TOP	50+	TOP		Jain Kim	TOP	35+	39+	43+
	Sam Avezou	45+	TOP	39+	50		Nonoha Kume	TOP	TOP	43+	38+
	Sorato Anraku	TOP	TOP	50+	48		Hélène Janicot	46+	32+	36	38+
4	Alexander Megos	44+	TOP	40+	46+	4	Jessica Pilz	TOP	TOP	44+	37+
5	Stefan Scherz	37+	TOP	42	41	5	Miho Nonaka	42+	TOP	36+	37+
6	Colin Duffy	44	TOP	46+	39+	6	Mia Krampl	TOP	35+	35	33
7	Luka Potočar	44	TOP	39+	39+	7	Vita Lukan [sl]	42+	35+	35	29+
8	Lee Do-hyun	44+	TOP	40+	39	8	Seo Chae-hyun	TOP	TOP	46+	22

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76 men and 67 women attended the event.^[13]

In men's, the Japanese team swept the podium. Sorato Anraku clinched his first lead World Cup win. Taisei Homma placed second, and Satone Yoshida placed third. There were no fewer than seven Japanese climbers in the men's final - a World Cup record. Homma and Yoshida had identical final scores but Homma claimed silver by virtue of his better semi-final performance.^[14]

In women's, Chamonix winner Jain Kim failed to advance past the semi-finals. In the final, Slovenia's Vita Lukan [sl] won her first lead World Cup ahead of Czechia's Eliska Adamovska and France's Manon Hily, who won her first World Cup bronze medal. ^[15]

More information Men, Women ...

Men						Women
Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final	Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final
		R1	R2					R1	R2
	Sorato Anraku	TOP	TOP	TOP	TOP		Vita Lukan [sl]	41+	41+	44+	46
	Taisei Homma	45+	TOP	45+	49+		Eliska Adamovska	42+	TOP	49+	44+
	Satone Yoshida	TOP	40+	43+	49+		Manon Hily	44+	41+	44+	44+
4	Yoshiyuki Ogata	45+	36	43	49	4	Nonoha Kume	49+	44+	49	43+
5	Shion Omata	45+	TOP	43	44+	5	Molly Thompson-Smith	50+	42+	44+	35
6	Masahiro Higuchi	45+	40	TOP	40+	6	Camille Pouget	42+	38+	44+	34+
7	Hannes Puman	43+	36+	46	39	7	Martina Demmel	40+	40	43+	34+
8	Haruki Uemura	40+	36+	45+	37+	8	Natsuki Tanii	TOP	43+	45+	12+

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59 men and 62 women attended the event.^[16]

In men's, the final route saw many athletes struggling low down the route with friction on a sloper, resulting in similar scores for 5 of the 8 climbers. Japan's Sorato Anraku, having just won the Briançon lead World Cup, topped the final route, securing the win and the overall 2023 lead World Cup title. USA's Jesse Grupper took second place and Olympic champion Alberto Ginés López took third, his first World Cup medal since 2019. ^[17]

In women's, Olympic champion Janja Garnbret topped the final route to claim the win. Last year's Koper World Cup winner Ai Mori finished second and Slovenian Vita Lukan [sl] took third.^[18]

More information Men, Women ...

Men						Women
Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final	Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final
		R1	R2					R1	R2
	Sorato Anraku	TOP	36+	45	TOP		Janja Garnbret	TOP	TOP	35+	TOP
	Jesse Grupper	TOP	36+	32+	42+		Ai Mori	43+	TOP	35+	44+
	Alberto Ginés López	TOP	TOP	25+	23		Vita Lukan [sl]	37+	33	33	40+
4	Toby Roberts	TOP	14+	37+	21+	4	Seo Chae-hyun	42	42+	34	38+
5	Alexander Megos	TOP	35+	29+	21+	5	Natsuki Tanii	43	34+	34	33+
6	Yannick Flohé	TOP	35+	31+	21	6	Laura Rogora	38	42+	31+	33+
7	Sam Avezou	TOP	33+	29+	20+	7	Nonoha Kume	33+	41	31+	31+
8	Luka Potočar	TOP	13+	27	18+	8	Mia Krampl	41+	42	31+	11+

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48 men and 45 women attended the event.^[19]

In men's, Japan's Sorato Anraku won the final lead World Cup of the 2023 season over compatriots Shion Omata and Taisei Homma. ^[20]

In women's, Japan's Ai Mori won the gold. Austria's Jessica Pilz took silver, securing her win the 2023 lead World Cup series. Japan's Natsuki Tanii placed third, her first podium since 2019. ^[21]

More information Men, Women ...

Men						Women
Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final	Rank	Name	Qualification		Semi-Final	Final
		R1	R2					R1	R2
	Sorato Anraku	35+	40+	TOP	39+		Ai Mori	TOP	39+	TOP	36+
	Shion Omata	33+	36+	34+	30+		Jessica Pilz	37+	32	34	31+
	Taisei Homma	34	TOP	TOP	26+		Natsuki Tanii	TOP	33+	TOP	26+
4	Yoshiyuki Ogata	26+	31+	34+	26+	4	Zhang Yuetong	33	26+	28+	22+
5	Song Yunchan	31	31	42+	24+	5	Futaba Ito	33+	32+	28+	22
6	Ao Yurikusa	31+	25+	38+	23+	6	Miho Nonaka	33	33+	28+	21+
7	Sascha Lehmann	29+	38+	38+	23	7	Jain Kim	36+	35+	34	20+
8	Nicolas Collin	26+	30+	37+	23	8	Manon Hily	16+	28+	28+	17+

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