Bouldering at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup
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Hachioji, Japan
Seoul, South Korea
Salt Lake City, United States
Prague, Czech Republic
Brixen, Italy
Innsbruck, Austria Sorato Anraku Natalia Grossman| Bouldering at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
|---|---|
| Location | Hachioji, Japan Seoul, South Korea
Innsbruck, Austria |
| Dates | 21 April – 18 June 2023 |
| Champions | |
| Men | Sorato Anraku |
| Women | Natalia Grossman |
The 2023 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 24th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 21 at the World Cup in Hachioji, and concluded on June 18 with the World Cup in Innsbruck. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event.
Natalia Grossman won the women's seasonal title. The men's seasonal title went to Sorato Anraku while Japan defended its title in the national teams competition.
| Date | Location | Routesetters* | Men | Women | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| April, 21-23 | Hachioji, Japan |
|
 Mejdi Schalck |
Brooke Raboutou | |
| April, 28-30 | Seoul, South Korea |
|
Mejdi Schalck |
Miho Nonaka | |
| May, 19-21 | Salt Lake City, United States |
|
Tomoa Narasaki |
Natalia Grossman | |
| June, 2-4 | Prague, Czech Republic |
|
Lee Dohyun |
Oriane Bertone | |
| June, 9-11 | Brixen, Italy |
|
 Toby Roberts |
Natalia Grossman | |
| June, 14-18 | Innsbruck, Austria |
|
Sorato Anraku |
 Janja Garnbret | |
| OVERALL WINNERS | Sorato Anraku |
Natalia Grossman | |||
| NATIONAL TEAM | Japan | ||||
* Chief routesetters are in bold.
Overall ranking
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.
Men
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[1]
| Rank | Name | Points | Hachioji | Seoul | Salt Lake City | Prague | Brixen | Innsbruck |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sorato Anraku |
3350 | 5. 545 | (29. 52*) | 2. 805 | 7. 455 | 5. 545 | 1. 1000 |
| 2 | Lee Dohyun |
3130 | 7. 455 | 4. 610 | (39. 15.3*) | 1. 1000 | 2. 805 | 14. 260 |
| 3 | Tomoa Narasaki |
3000 | 10. 350 | 2. 805 | 1. 1000 | 10. 350 | 6. 495 | (11. 325) |
| 4 | Toby Roberts |
2710 | (25. 89.5*) | 8. 415 | 3. 690 | 15. 240 | 1. 1000 | 9. 365* |
| 5 | Mejdi Schalck |
2690 | 1. 1000 | 1. 1000 | (-) | 3. 690 | - | - |
| 6 | Yoshiyuki Ogata |
2335 | 13. 280 | 12. 300 | (16. 220) | 4. 610 | 3. 690 | 7. 455 |
| 7 | Chon Jong-won |
2275 | 6. 495 | 3. 690 | 14. 260 | (16. 220) | 16. 220 | 4. 610 |
| 8 |  Hannes Van Duysen |
2140 | 2. 805 | 13. 280 | 6. 495 | 13. 280 | (-) | 13. 280 |
| 9 | Meichi Narasaki |
1945 | 8. 415 | (85. 0) | 25. 89.5* | 35. 25.5* | 4. 610 | 2. 805 |
| 10 |  Yannick Flohé |
1750.5 | 11. 325 | 7. 455 | (-) | 5. 545 | 8. 415 | 45. 10.5* |
Women
The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[2]
| Rank | Name | Points | Hachioji | Seoul | Salt Lake City | Prague | Brixen | Innsbruck |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Natalia Grossman |
3527.5 | 8. 397.5* | 11. 325 | 1. 1000 | (-) | 1. 1000 | 2. 805 |
| 2 | Miho Nonaka |
3005 | 11. 325 | 1. 1000 | 9. 380 | 4. 610 | (-) | 3. 690 |
| 3 | Brooke Raboutou |
2990 | 1. 1000 | 3. 690 | 3. 690 | (-) | - | 4. 610 |
| 4 | Oriane Bertone |
2649.5 | 31. 39.5* | 2. 805 | 2. 805 | 1. 1000 | (-) | - |
| 5 |  Ayala Kerem |
1995 | 4. 610 | 6. 495 | (-) | 13. 280 | 4. 610 | - |
| 6 |  Staša Gejo |
1893 | 27. 68* | 10. 350 | (-) | 5. 545 | 3. 690 | 15. 240 |
| 7 |  Oceana Mackenzie |
1880 | (35. 25.5*) | 13. 280 | 12. 300 | 7. 455 | 5. 545 | 12. 300 |
| 8 | Janja Garnbret |
1805 | (-) | - | - | 2. 805 | - | 1. 1000 |
| 9 | Anastasia Sanders |
1765 | 37. 20* | 5. 545 | 4. 610 | (-) | 15. 240 | 10. 350 |
| 10 | Seo Chae-hyun |
1744.5 | 14. 250 | (29. 52*) | 25. 89.5* | 8. 415 | 2. 805 | 18. 185 |
* = Joint place with another athlete
National Teams
The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[3]
Country names as used by the IFSC
| Rank | Name | Points | Hachioji | Seoul | Salt Lake City | Prague | Brixen | Innsbruck |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Japan |
19130 | 3000 | 3395 | 3210 | 2740 | 2795 | 3990 |
| 2 | France |
13908 | 2336 | 3535 | 2328 | 3042 | 847 | 1820 |
| 3 | United States |
12598.5 | 1575 | 1828 | 3650 | 848 | 2260 | 2437.5 |
| 4 | Korea |
8028 | 1295 | 1407 | 550 | 1681 | 1857 | 1238 |
| 5 | Germany |
5895 | 1384 | 1252 | 443.5 | 874 | 1242 | 699.5 |
| 6 | Slovenia |
5859 | 872 | 315 | 361 | 1831 | 857 | 1623 |
| 7 | Austria |
5311 | 770 | 980 | 582 | 1354 | 980 | 645 |
| 8 | United Kingdom |
5236.5 | 370 | 995 | 1072 | 547 | 1725 | 527.5 |
| 9 | Belgium |
4323 | 921 | 772 | 658 | 610 | 27 | 1335 |
| 10 | Israel |
4151.33 | 1151 | 717 | 805 | 483 | 932 | 63.33 |
Hachioji, Japan (21-23 April)
Women
74 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. Brooke Raboutou won her first World Cup in front of Hannah Meul as the only athlete to get 3 tops and 1 zone. Brooke Raboutou was the only athlete to top boulders 3 and 4 in the final. Anon Matsufuji completed the podium, earning her first IFSC World Cup medal. [4][5][6]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Brooke Raboutou |
3T3z 6 6 |
| 2 | Hannah Meul |
1T3z 1 8 |
| 3 | Anon Matsufuji |
0T3z 0 7 |
| 4 | Ayala Kerem |
0T3z 0 9 |
| 5 |  Luo Zhilu |
0T3z 0 11 |
| 6 | Mia Krampl |
0T1z 0 9 |
Men
91 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. Mejdi Schalck won the competition, being the only athlete to top more than one boulder. He was the only one to top boulder 1. Hannes Van Duysen placed 2nd, claiming his first IFSC World Cup medal. Paul Jenft rounded out the podium in third.[7][8]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Mejdi Schalck |
2T3z 7 7 |
| 2 | Hannes Van Duysen |
1T3z 2 11 |
| 3 | Paul Jenft |
1T3z 3 3 |
| 4 | Kokoro Fujii |
0T3z 0 9 |
| 5 | Sorato Anraku |
0T3z 0 11 |
| 6 | Chon Jong-won |
0T3z 0 13 |
Seoul, South Korea (28-30 April)
Women
75 athletes attended the World Cup in Seoul. The results were based on semifinal standings after the finals were cancelled due to rain delay. [9] Miho Nonaka won the competition — her first win since Meiringen 2018. Oriane Bertone and Brooke Raboutou finished second and third respectively, separated only by attempts.[10][11]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Miho Nonaka |
2T3z 20 22 |
| 2 | Oriane Bertone |
2T2z 4 3 |
| 3 | Brooke Raboutou |
2T2z 10 7 |
| 4 | Anon Matsufuji |
1T3z 4 15 |
| 5 | Anastasia Sanders |
1T3z 5 23 |
| 6 | Ayala Kerem |
1T2z 6 9 |
Men
87 athletes attended the World Cup in Seoul. The results were based on semifinal standings after the finals were cancelled due to rain delay. Seoul winner Mejdi Schalck won back-to-back World Cups, finishing ahead of Tomoa Narasaki, with attempts separating the two. Chon Jong-won placed third, his first podium since Vail 2019. [12][13]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Mejdi Schalck |
2T3z 2 7 |
| 2 | Tomoa Narasaki |
2T3z 6 10 |
| 3 | Chon Jong-won |
2T2z 2 2 |
| 4 | Lee Dohyun |
1T2z 1 9 |
| 5 | Manuel Cornu |
1T2z 4 5 |
| 6 | Nicolai Uznik |
1T1z 2 2 |
Salt Lake City, United States (19–21 May)
Women
61 athletes attended the World Cup in Salt Lake City. Last year's winner Natalia Grossman was the only athlete to achieve 4 tops, winning a fifth-straight boulder gold in Salt Lake City. Oriane Bertone won silver over Brooke Raboutou. [14][15]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Natalia Grossman |
4T4z 5 5 |
| 2 | Oriane Bertone |
2T4z 3 6 |
| 3 | Brooke Raboutou |
2T3z 4 10 |
| 4 | Anastasia Sanders |
1T4z 6 16 |
| 5 | Luo Zhilu |
1T3z 1 5 |
| 6 | Fanny Gibert |
0T3z 0 7 |
Men
64 athletes attended the World Cup in Salt Lake City. In the final, teammates Tomoa Narasaki and Sorato Anraku topped all the boulders in the finals, but Narasaki won the gold medal based on attempts. Anraku won silver and Toby Roberts bronze respectively — claiming their first IFSC World Cup medals. [16][17]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tomoa Narasaki |
4T4z 6 5 |
| 2 | Sorato Anraku |
4T4z 12 6 |
| 3 | Toby Roberts |
3T4z 8 10 |
| 4 | Sean Bailey |
3T3z 8 7 |
| 5 | Daiki Sano |
2T4z 6 11 |
| 6 | Hannes Van Duysen |
2T3z 3 4 |
Prague, Czech Republic (2-4 June)
Women
73 athletes attended the World Cup in Prague. Oriane Bertone won her first World Cup ahead of Janja Garnbret. Bertone and Garnbret were the only athletes to get 3 tops and 4 zones in the final, separated only by 2 attempts to top. Flavy Cohaut completed the podium, earning her first IFSC World Cup medal in her first final. [18]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Oriane Bertone |
3T4z 4 5 |
| 2 | Janja Garnbret |
3T4z 6 7 |
| 3 | Flavy Cohaut |
2T3z 6 12 |
| 4 | Miho Nonaka |
1T3z 1 3 |
| 5 | Stasa Gejo |
0T2z 0 8 |
| 6 | Futaba Ito |
0T2z 0 9 |
Men
94 athletes attended the World Cup in Prague. Prague 2023 marked Adam Ondra's return to boulder World Cups since 2021. Lee Dohyun won his first World Cup in front of Adam Ondra. Both Lee and Ondra completed all 4 problems in the final. But Lee claimed gold due to lower attempts to top. Mejdi Schalck placed third. [19][20]
| Rank | Name | Score |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lee Dohyun |
4T4z 5 5 |
| 2 | Adam Ondra |
4T4z 13 9 |
| 3 | Mejdi Schalck |
3T4z 3 6 |
| 4 | Yoshiyuki Ogata |
3T4z 5 5 |
| 5 | Yannick Flohé |
3T3z 9 7 |
| 6 | Jan-Luca Posch |
1T3z 1 7 |